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How To Start Seeds

Wall's Corners

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Title: How To Start Seeds
Author: Wall's Corners
Rating 5 of 5 Des:

There are many ways to start seeds, but a seed-starting system, such as the GrowEase Seed Starting Kit ensures good results. G ROWING pl...

<div class="image-center">
<p>There are many ways to start seeds, but a seed-starting system, such as the <a class="quickview" href="http://ift.tt/1Vc0ReY" target="_blank" title="GrowEase Seed Starting Kit">GrowEase Seed Starting Kit</a> ensures good results.</p>
</div>
<p><span class="dropcap">G</span>ROWING plants from seed is a great way to start gardening earlier in the season. With the right <a href="http://ift.tt/1SDfTEN" itemprop="url" target="_bank" title="light"><strong>light</strong></a> and some simple equipment, it’s easy to grow from seed to harvest.</p>
<div class="subheads">
<div class="image-right"><img alt="Marigold growing among vegetables" src="http://ift.tt/1Vc0TUb" /></div>
<p><span class="lead-in">Keep it simple</span><br />
Because each <a href="http://ift.tt/1SCTcRa" itemprop="url" target="_bank" title="plant"><strong>plant</strong></a> has unique seed-starting requirements, it helps to start small by growing just a few varieties. <a href="http://ift.tt/1SDfWAs" target="_blank">Some seeds — such as tomatoes and marigolds — are especially easy to start indoors</a>. If you’re a beginner, choose those first, and then move on to more fussy seeds, such as petunias.</p>
<p>Other good choices for beginners:</p>
<ul>
<li><strong>Basil</strong></li>
<li><strong>Zinnia</strong></li>
<li><strong>Coleus</strong></li>
<li><strong>Nasturtium</strong></li>
<li><strong>Cosmos</strong></li>
</ul>
<p> </p>
<div class="image-right"><a class="link" href="http://ift.tt/1GRzor3" target="_blank" title="Shop for grow lights"><img alt="Grow lights for starting seeds" src="http://ift.tt/1Vc0Rf0" /></a></div>
<p><span class="lead-in">Make sure you have lots of light</span><br />
All seedlings require a considerable amount of <a href="http://ift.tt/1SDfTER" itemprop="url" target="_bank" title="Create your own musical light show with Raspberry Pi"><strong>light</strong></a>, so make sure you have a sunny, south-facing window. If seedlings don’t get enough light, they will be leggy and weak.</p>
<p>If you don’t have a sunny, south-facing window, invest in <a class="link" href="http://ift.tt/1Vc0Rf3" target="_blank" title="Shop for grow lights">grow lights and a timer</a> . It’s the best way to ensure consistent, abundant light. Set the timer for 15 hours a day, water regulary and you’re sure to get great results.</p>
<p>Learn more in the article <a href="http://ift.tt/1KGaiPv" target="_blank"><em>Gardening Under Lights</em></a>.</p>
<div class="image-right"><a href="http://ift.tt/1Vc0TUd" target="_blank"><img alt="Information on the back of a seed packet" src="http://ift.tt/1SDfTET" /></a></div>
<p><span class="lead-in">Get the timing right</span><br />
The goal with seed starting is to have your seedlings ready to go outside when the weather is favorable. Start by looking at the seed packet, which should tell you when to start seeds inside. Usually, it will say something like, “Plant inside six to eight weeks before last frost.”</p>
<p>Some types of vegetables, such as beans and squash, are best started <em>outdoors</em>. There is little benefit to growing them indoors because they germinate and grow quickly. Some flowers, such as poppies, are best planted outdoors, too. These seeds are usually marked “direct sow”.</p>
<p>For more on timing, read the article <a href="http://ift.tt/1Vc0TUd" target="_blank"><em>When to Start Your Seeds</em></a>.</p>
</div>
<h2 class="article-subhead">Six Steps, from Seed to Garden</h2>
<div class="image-right"><a class="link" href="http://ift.tt/1Vc0TUe" target="_blank" title="Shop for seed-starting kits"><img alt="Special tray for starting seeds" src="http://ift.tt/1SDfTV7" /></a><a class="link" href="http://ift.tt/1Vc0TUe" target="_blank" title="Shop for seed-starting kits">A seed starting tray with a built-in watering system</a> makes seed starting foolproof.</div>
<p><span class="lead-in">1. Find the right containers</span><br />
You can start seeds in almost any type of container, as long as it’s at least 2-3 ” deep and has some drainage holes. If you are the DIY type, you might want to grow seedlings in yogurt cups, milk cartons or paper cups. I prefer the convenience of <a class="link" href="http://ift.tt/1Vc0TUe" target="_blank" title="Shop for seed-starting trays">trays that are made especially for seed starting</a>. It’s easy to fill the trays, the <a href="http://ift.tt/1Vc0TUg" itemprop="url" target="_bank" title="watering"><strong>watering</strong></a> system ensures consistent moisture and I can move them easily.</p>
<p><span class="lead-in">2. Prepare the “potting soil”</span><br />
Choose potting soil that’s made for growing seedlings. Do not use soil from your garden or re-use potting soil from your houseplants. Start with a fresh, sterile mix that will ensure healthy, disease-free seedlings.</p>
<p>Before filling your containers, use a bucket or tub to moisten the planting mix. The goal is to get it moist but not sopping wet; crumbly, not gloppy. Fill the containers and pack the soil firmly to eliminate gaps.</p>
<p>Remember that most mixes contain few, if any, nutrients, so you’ll need to feed the seedlings with <a href="http://ift.tt/1SDfWAz" target="_blank" title="Water-soluble fertilizer for seedlings">liquid fertilizer</a> a few weeks after they germinate, and continue until you transplant them into the garden.</p>
<div class="image-right"><a href="http://ift.tt/1Vc0TUi" target="_blank" title="Shop for potting soil made for seed starting"><img alt="Potting soil that's made especially for seed starting" src="http://ift.tt/1SDfTVb" /></a><a href="http://ift.tt/1Vc0TUi" target="_blank" title="Shop for potting soil made for seed starting">Good-quality “potting soil” for seed starting</a> doesn’t actually have any soil in it. This sterile, free-draining mix is perfect for seedlings.</div>
<p><span class="lead-in">3. Start planting</span><br />
Check the seed packet to see how deep you should <a href="http://ift.tt/1VbHNxx" itemprop="url" target="_bank" title="Build a Raspberry Pi Moisture Sensor to Monitor Your Plants"><strong>plant</strong></a> your seeds. Some of the small ones can be sprinkled right on the soil surface. Larger seeds will need to be buried. For insurance, I plant two seeds per cell (or pot). If both seeds germinate, I snip one and let the other grow. It’s helpful to make a couple divots in each pot to accomodate the seeds. After you’ve dropped a seed in each divot, you can go back and cover the seeds.</p>
<p>Moisten the newly planted seeds with a mister or a small <a href="http://ift.tt/1Vc0TUk" itemprop="url" target="_bank" title="Automatically watering your plants with sensors, a Pi and webhooks"><strong>watering</strong></a> can. To speed germination, cover the pots with plastic wrap or a plastic dome that fits over the seed-starting tray. This helps keep the seeds moist before they germinate. When you see the first signs of green, remove the cover.</p>
<p><span class="lead-in">4. Water, feed, repeat</span><br />
As the seedlings grow, use a mister or a small watering can to keep the soil moist but not soggy. Let the soil dry slightly between waterings. Set up a fan to ensure good air movement and prevent disease. I use a fan that’s plugged into the same timer as my grow lights. Remember to feed the seedlings regularly with <a href="http://ift.tt/1SDfWAz" target="_blank" title="plant food for seedlings">liquid fertilizer</a>, mixed at the rate recommended on the package.</p>
<p><span class="lead-in">5. Light, light, light!</span><br />
Seedlings need a lot of light. If you’re growing in a window, choose a south-facing exposure. Rotate the pots regularly to keep plants from leaning into the light. If you’re growing under lights, adjust them so they’re just a few inches above the tops of the seedlings. Set the lights on a <a href="http://ift.tt/1SDfWQO" target="_blank" title="Shop for timers for grow lights">timer</a> for 15 hours a day. Keep in mind that seedlings need darkness, too, so they can rest. As the seedlings grow taller, raise the lights.</p>
<p><span class="lead-in">6. Move seedlings outdoors gradually</span><br />
It’s not a good idea to move your seedlings directly from the protected environment of your home into the garden. You’ve been coddling these seedlings for weeks, so they need a gradual transition to the great outdoors. The process is called hardening off. About a week before you plan to set the seedlings into the garden, place them in a protected spot outdoors (partly shaded, out of the wind) for a few hours, bringing them in at night. Gradually, over the course of a week or 10 days, expose them to more and more sunshine and wind. A <a href="http://ift.tt/1Vc0TUo" target="_blank" title="Cold frame">cold frame</a> is a great place to harden off plants.</p>
<p> </p>
<h2 class="article-subhead">Troubleshooting</h2>
<p><strong>Only one-quarter of my seeds germinated. What went wrong?</strong> There are a number of factors that affect seed germination. Check the seed packet to determine if all the requirements for temperature and light were met. If the soil was cold and excessively wet, the seeds may have rotted. Dig up one of the seeds and examine it. If it is swollen and soft, the seed has rotted and you will need to start over. If the soil was too dry, the seeds may not have germinated or may have dried up before their roots could take hold. If the seeds were old, they may no longer be viable. Try again and be sure to provide consistent moisture.</p>
<div class="image-center"><img alt="Spindly seedlings" src="http://ift.tt/1SDfTVd" />From our <a href="http://ift.tt/1Vc0Rf7" target="_blank">Garden Lab</a>: The seedlings on the right were grown on a windowsill. You can see how the stems are long and spindly, with tiny leaves. On the left are seedlings grown under lights.</div>
<p><strong>My seedlings are spindly. What can I do?</strong> Plants grow tall and leggy when they do not receive enough light. Use <a class="link" href="http://ift.tt/1qx4nEx" target="_blank" title="Grow lights">grow lights</a> to ensure that they receive 15 hours of bright light each day. Warm temperatures can also stimulate leggy growth. Try lowering the room temperature and reducing the amount of fertilizer you apply. For more on this topic, see the article <a class="link" href="http://ift.tt/1SDfTVf" target="_blank" title="Growing under lights">Growing Under Lights</a>.</p>
<div class="image-right"><a href="http://ift.tt/1SDfWAz" target="_blank" title="Shoo for fertilizer"><img alt="Compare seedlings grown with fertilizer to those without" src="http://ift.tt/1Vc0Rfb" /></a>The tray on the left was grown with <a href="http://ift.tt/1SDfWAz" target="_blank" title="Shop for fertilizer">water-soluble fertilizer</a>.</div>
<p><strong>The leaves on my tomatoes are starting to look purple along the veins and on the underside of the leaves. What’s happening?</strong> Purple leaves are an indication that the plant is not receiving enough phosphorus. If you have been using half-strength fertilizer for the first three to four weeks of the seedling’s life, it may be time to increase the fertilizer to full strength. The phosphorus content (the middle number on the fertilizer analysis) should be at least 3.</p>
<p><strong>My seedlings were growing well until all of a sudden they toppled over at the base. What happened?</strong> When the stems of young seedlings become withered and topple over, they have probably been killed by a soil-borne fungus called “damping off.” This fungus is difficult to eradicate once it is present in the soil, but you can avoid it by using a <a class="link" href="http://ift.tt/1SDfTVj" target="_blank" title="Shop for potting soil">sterile, soilless growing medium</a> , and by providing good air circulation.</p>
<p><strong>Mold is growing on the top of the soil surface. It doesn’t appear to be hurting my plants, but should I be concerned?</strong> Mold is an indication that the growing medium is too wet. It will not harm your plants as long as you take action. Withhold water for a few days and try to increase air circulation around the containers by using a small fan. You can also scrape off some of the mold or try transplanting the seedlings into fresh soil.</p>
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How To Start Seeds

There are many ways to start seeds, but a seed-starting system, such as the GrowEase Seed Starting Kit ensures good results. G ROWING pl...

How To Grow Asparagus

Wall's Corners

Link Author

Title: How To Grow Asparagus
Author: Wall's Corners
Rating 5 of 5 Des:

you love asparagus and want to grow some yourself, waste no time in getting started. Even with the best of care, an asparagus bed won’t hit ...

<p>you love asparagus and want to grow some yourself, waste no time in getting started. Even with the best of care, an asparagus bed won’t hit its stride for several years. But once that happens, the bed will produce an abundant crop of spears spring after spring for at least the next 20 to 30 years.</p>
<p>In the old days, gardeners were told to prepare an asparagus bed by digging an 18″ deep trench and then backfilling it with a mix of compost and soil. Thanks to <a href="http://ift.tt/1UDKUyD" itemprop="url" target="_bank" title="How to automatically water your plants with the Raspberry Pi"><strong>plant</strong></a> breeders at Rutgers University in New Jersey and elsewhere, today’s improved varieties of asparagus are less work to <a href="http://ift.tt/20bGi2e" itemprop="url" target="_bank" title="Build a Raspberry Pi Moisture Sensor to Monitor Your Plants"><strong>plant</strong></a> (6″ to 12″ deep is adequate) and produce almost twice as many spears per plant. The production increases are due to the fact that these hybrids are all-male cultivars, so no energy is wasted producing seeds. They also don’t produce baby asparagus plants, which can compete for space and nutrients. So forget about Martha Washington and the old asparagus varieties. Most of the new varieties are also resistant to two common asparagus diseases: fusarium rot and asparagus rust.</p>
<div class="image-right"><img alt="Asparagus bed" src="http://ift.tt/1qx4nVg" />An asparagus bed during the third week of the season. Read more in our blog post: <a href="http://ift.tt/20bGiis" target="_blank">Please Pass the Asparagus</a></div>
<p>Before planting a new asparagus bed, it’s critical to eradicate all the weeds and grasses from the planting area — even if this requires a full year of advance preparation. Asparagus plants will not tolerate weed competition. Even though asparagus can sometimes be spotted growing in a ditch among thick grass, the domesticated varieties won’t survive. No grasses, no weeds. Period.</p>
<p>Asparagus crowns are usually available just once a year in early spring. So plan accordingly. Once the bed is weed-free, dig a trench about 12″ deep and a foot wide. The crowns should be planted at 18″ intervals in the bed, so put a shovel of compost and a cup of <a class="quickview" href="http://ift.tt/1qx4mAz" target="_blank" title="granular fertilizer">all-purpose, organic fertilizer</a> in the trench every 18″. Rock phosphate, a natural mineral powder, is another good addition. Phosphorus, which promotes strong root growth, doesn’t move through the soil as easily as other nutrients. You only get one opportunity to fortify the root zone, so don’t miss your chance.</p>
<p>Mix the compost and fertilizer with some garden soil and shape it into a little mound. Set the asparagus crown on top and drape the roots down around the sides. The top of the crown should be approximately 6″ below the soil surface. Cover the roots with garden soil right up to the crown and water well. As shoots begin to appear, add more soil until the trench has been filled back up, level with the soil surface.</p>
<p>If grasses or other perennial weeds get established in an asparagus bed it is almost impossible to reclaim the planting. So keep your asparagus bed well-mulched from the start, using shredded leaves or straw. For the first couple years, weed often and carefully — asparagus roots are near the surface and can be damaged by weeding tools. Don’t interplant other vegetables in the same bed. Asparagus hates competition of any kind.</p>
<div class="image-right"><a class="quickview" href="http://ift.tt/1Eg98Y9" target="_blank" title="Snip-n-Drip soaker hose"><img alt="Snip-n-Drip watering system" src="http://ift.tt/1qx4nVi" /></a>The <a class="quickview" href="http://ift.tt/1Eg98Y9" target="_blank" title="Soaker system for garden beds">Snip-n-Drip watering system</a> can be customized to fit any asparagus bed — including raised beds.</div>
<p>Originally asparagus grew in swamps and wet places, so maintaining consistent soil moisture is important for good production. You may wish to install <a class="link" href="http://ift.tt/20bGgqT" target="_blank" title="Watering systems">drip-irrigation or a soaker hose</a> if you live in a dry region. Watering is especially important during the first three to five years of growth.</p>
<p>To keep your asparagus bed productive, don’t be greedy. The first year after planting, you can harvest a few spears from each plant. Pick for about two weeks and then stop so the fronds can unfold and begin feeding the root system. Harvest for three weeks the next year, and four to six weeks after that. Pick too much, and your plants will not be able to develop the strong root system and energy reserves they’ll need to produce an abundant crop of spears the following season.</p>
<div class="image-right"><img alt="Asparagus foliage" src="http://ift.tt/1qx4mAF" />Asparagus foliage and berries. <span class="credit">Photo: Sandra Gray, Richfield, MN</span></div>
<p>The diameter of the spear has no bearing on quality. Spears should be harvested when they are 5″ to 7″ high and before the tips begin to loosen. Once the tips loosen, the spears become tough and fibrous. To harvest spears, cut or snap them off just above the soil level. Leaving a stub causes no harm to the plant. Once the bed is well-established, harvesting can continue until the bed yields only skinny spears that are less than a half inch in diameter.</p>
<p>Once the harvesting season has ended, which will be in late spring/early summer, allow the spears to develop naturally. They will grow 4′ to 6′ feet high, with lacy, light-green foliage. Keep the bed weeded, mulched and watered. The healthier the fronds, the more energy the plants will have for next year’s harvest. When fall arrives, the fronds will turn yellow. At this time, it’s generally best to cut the fronds about an inch above ground level and remove them from the area. This will help keep pests, such as the <a href="http://ift.tt/20bGiix" target="_blank" title="Controlling asparagus beetles">asparagus beetle</a>, from overwintering. It will also make sure your bed is neat and ready to go next spring.</p>
<p>Twenty-five asparagus plants will yield more than enough for a family of four.</p>
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How To Grow Asparagus

you love asparagus and want to grow some yourself, waste no time in getting started. Even with the best of care, an asparagus bed won’t hit ...

How To Start Seeds

Wall's Corners

Link Author

Title: How To Start Seeds
Author: Wall's Corners
Rating 5 of 5 Des:

There are many ways to start seeds, but a seed-starting system, such as the GrowEase Seed Starting Kit ensures good results. G ROWING pl...

How To Start Seeds

There are many ways to start seeds, but a seed-starting system, such as the GrowEase Seed Starting Kit ensures good results. G ROWING pl...

How To Grow Asparagus

Wall's Corners

Link Author

Title: How To Grow Asparagus
Author: Wall's Corners
Rating 5 of 5 Des:

you love asparagus and want to grow some yourself, waste no time in getting started. Even with the best of care, an asparagus bed won’t hit ...

How To Grow Asparagus

you love asparagus and want to grow some yourself, waste no time in getting started. Even with the best of care, an asparagus bed won’t hit ...

How To Start Seeds

How To Grow Asparagus

How To Start Seeds

How To Grow Asparagus

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