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Software for RaspBerry Pi

Wall's Corners

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Title: Software for RaspBerry Pi
Author: Wall's Corners
Rating 5 of 5 Des:

We can write the program to control the simulator in a variety of languages. Using the gpio program we can do it in a simple shell script (...

<p>We can write the program to control the simulator in a variety of languages. Using the <em><strong>gpio</strong></em>program we can do it in a simple shell script (or even call it from languages such as php, perl, etc.) and using the <em><strong>wiringPi</strong></em> library then we can call it from C or C++.</p>
<p>As a bit of an exercise, I have written 2 versions – one using the standard BASH and the other in C. You can get the source code here:</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://bit.ly/25WUD9g" target="_blank" title="GPIO Example Software">TuxX Source Code</a></li>
<li><a href="http://bit.ly/1U7PiBc" target="_blank" title="Tuxx Softwart in GIT">GIT Repository</a></li>
</ul>
<p>The bash code (tuxx.sh) will run directly, but to make the C program run, we first need to compile it, then run it as root via the sudo command.</p>
<p>Setup:</p>
<pre>
mkdir ~/tuxx
cd ~/tuxx
</pre>
<p>To get and run the Bash version:</p>
<pre>
wget http://bit.ly/25WTGxH
chmod +x tuxx.sh
./tuxx.sh
</pre>
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<p>To get and run the C version:</p>
<pre>
wget http://bit.ly/1U7PEYq
cc -o tuxx -Wall -I/usr/local/include -L/usr/local/lib tuxx.c -lwiringPi
sudo ./tuxx
</pre>
<p>to get the latest via GIT:</p>
<pre>
git clone git://git.drogon.net/gpioExamples
cd gpioExamples/tuxx
make
sudo ./tuxx
</pre>
<p>Do examine the code (both the C and Bash versions) to understand how they work and how to adapt them for your own projects</p>
<p>Enjoy!</p>
<p>-Gordon</p>
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Software for RaspBerry Pi

We can write the program to control the simulator in a variety of languages. Using the gpio program we can do it in a simple shell script (...

More LEDs and a Button – part 3

Wall's Corners

Link Author

Title: More LEDs and a Button – part 3
Author: Wall's Corners
Rating 5 of 5 Des:

We’ll add 2 more LEDs and a button now and here is the final photo: The Tux Crossing Board Finished Tux Crossing – Breadboard layout ...

<p>We’ll add 2 more LEDs and a button now and here is the final photo:</p>
<div id="attachment_386" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><a href="http://bit.ly/1S4RHdy" target="_blank"><img alt="The Tux Crossing Board" class="size-medium wp-image-386" height="222" sizes="(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px" src="http://bit.ly/1YqnFIs" srcset="http://bit.ly/1YqnFIs 300x, http://bit.ly/1S4RHdy 1024x" title="The Tux Crossing Board" width="300" /></a>
<p class="wp-caption-text">The Tux Crossing Board</p>
</div>
<div id="attachment_838" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><a href="http://bit.ly/1S4RrLE" target="_blank"><img alt="Tux Crossing" class="size-medium wp-image-838" height="300" src="http://bit.ly/1YqmTLF" title="Tux Crossing" width="264" /></a>
<p class="wp-caption-text">Finished Tux Crossing – Breadboard layout</p>
</div>
<p>So we now have a traffic light/pelican (Tux!) crossing simulator.</p>
<p>The 2nd Red <a href="http://bit.ly/1WT6RcH" itemprop="url" target="_bank" title="LED"><strong>LED</strong></a> is connected to <em><strong>wiringPi</strong></em> pin 3, (GPIO-22), and the 2nd Green <a href="http://bit.ly/1UhB2tm" itemprop="url" target="_bank" title="LED"><strong>LED</strong></a> is connected to <em><strong>wiringPi</strong></em> pin 4, (GPIO-23).</p>
<p>Test them as before with the <em><strong>gpio</strong></em> command, e.g.</p>
<pre>
for i in 0 1 2 3 4 ; do gpio mode $i out; done
for i in 0 1 2 3 4 ; do gpio write $i 1; done
for i in 0 1 2 3 4 ; do gpio write $i 0; done
</pre>
<p>The button is connected to <strong><em>wiringPi</em></strong> pin 8, (GPIO-0/SDA0), and the other side is connected to 0v. This pin has a 1.8KΩ resistor connecting it to +3.3v on the <a href="http://bit.ly/27ItTrs" itemprop="url" target="_bank" title="Raspberry Pi"><strong>Raspberry Pi</strong></a> board. What this means is that when we set the pin to input mode and read the value, we are going to read in a logic high value (or 1 in our number terms), and when we push the button we connect the pin to 0v then the input will read a logic low value, or zero. This may appear to be the opposite way round to what we might expect, but we can easily cater for it in our programs.</p>
<p>Some designs for connecting buttons to the Rasberry Pi may include additional resistors, designed to protect the chips pin should you accidentally program it as an output. It’s not strictly necessary, but if you do program it as output, and write a high value to the pin, then you run the risk of damaging the pin, and possibly the chip.</p>
<p>We read the button as follows:</p>
<pre>
gpio mode 8 input
gpio read 8
</pre>
<p>The <em><strong>gpio</strong></em> program will print 1 or 0 depending on the state of the button. Expect it to print 1 when the button is not pressed, and print 0 when it is pressed.</p>
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More LEDs and a Button – part 3

We’ll add 2 more LEDs and a button now and here is the final photo: The Tux Crossing Board Finished Tux Crossing – Breadboard layout ...

A single LED – tutorial simple part 1

Wall's Corners

Link Author

Title: A single LED – tutorial simple part 1
Author: Wall's Corners
Rating 5 of 5 Des:

Before we even get started with the GPIO, lets make an LED light up by simply wiring it to the +3.3v supply and 0v. Single LED Lit up ...

<p>Before we even get started with the GPIO, lets make an LED <a href="http://bit.ly/1VNpzU4" itemprop="url" target="_bank" title="light"><strong>light</strong></a> up by simply wiring it to the +3.3v supply and 0v.</p>
<div id="attachment_378" class="wp-caption aligncenter">
<p><a href="http://bit.ly/1Q3iXit" target="_blank"><img alt="Single LED" class="size-medium wp-image-378" height="225" sizes="(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px" src="http://bit.ly/1Pt4JBS" srcset="http://bit.ly/1Pt4JBS 300x, http://bit.ly/1Q3icG4 400x, http://bit.ly/1Q3iXit 1024x" title="Single LED" width="300" /></a></p>
<p class="wp-caption-text">Single LED Lit up</p>
</div>
<div id="attachment_919" class="wp-caption aligncenter">
<p><a href="http://bit.ly/1Pt4oz2" target="_blank"><img alt="One LED on the 3.3v supply" class="size-medium wp-image-919" height="300" sizes="(max-width: 267px) 100vw, 267px" src="http://bit.ly/1Q3i5u3" srcset="http://bit.ly/1Q3i5u3 267x, http://bit.ly/1Pt4dnt 911x, http://bit.ly/1Pt4oz2 948x" title="One LED on the 3.3v supply" width="267" /></a></p>
<p class="wp-caption-text">One LED on the 3.3v supply</p>
</div>
<p> </p>
<p>So… We have a yellow wire from the Pi’s +3.3v supply to the breadboard and this connects to an LED then via a 270Ω (ohm) resistor to 0v. The green wire connects back to the Pi.</p>
<p>(Note that here and in the following pages, the <em>Fritzing</em> breadboard layout is slightly different from the photos – it’s the same circuit, just laid out in a way that makes it easy to see in the images)</p>
<p>Refer to the <a href="http://bit.ly/1Q3iFYS" target="_blank" title="Pins">diagram here</a> to work out the pins we’re using. From this view the 3.3v pin on the GPIO connector is to the top-left, or pin number 1 on the connector.</p>
<p>In electronics terms, our circuit diagram looks like this:</p>
<div id="attachment_412" class="wp-caption aligncenter">
<p><a href="http://bit.ly/1Pt5BGs" target="_blank"><img alt="LED Circuit diagram" class="size-medium wp-image-412" height="300" src="http://bit.ly/1Q3iGfo" title="LED Circuit diagram" width="205" /></a></p>
<p class="wp-caption-text">LED Circuit diagram</p>
</div>
<p>A quick word about the electronics involved. LEDs are <a href="http://bit.ly/1Pt3Au6" itemprop="url" target="_bank" title="Light"><strong>Light</strong></a> Emitting Diodes and the diode part is important for us – they only pass electricity one way, so we need to make sure we put them in the right way round. They have a long leg and a slightly shorter leg. The long leg goes to the plus side and the shorter leg to the negative (or 0v) side. If we’re cut the legs short (as I have done here), then another way is to look at the side of the LED – there will be a flat section. Think of the flat as a minus sign and connect that to the 0v side of the circuit.</p>
<p>If we allow too much current through the LED, it will burn very bright for a very short period of time before it burns out, so we need a resistor to limit the current. Calculating the resistor value is not difficult but for now, just use anything from 270Ω to 330Ω. Anything higher will make the LED dimmer.</p>
<p>So now we have a lit LED. What we really need to do is make it easily turn on and offable – preferably by a command or program running on the <a href="http://bit.ly/26nCm2K" itemprop="url" target="_bank" title="Raspberry"><strong>Raspberry</strong></a> Pi.</p>
<p>We need to move the yellow wire to one of the programmable GPIO pins. We’ll move it to <em><strong>wiringPi</strong></em> pin 0 (GPIO-17) which is notionally the first user GPIO pin. (It’s physical location is pin 11 on the GPIO connector)</p>
<div id="attachment_380" class="wp-caption aligncenter">
<p><a href="http://bit.ly/1Pt3C57" target="_blank"><img alt="LED controlled by GPIO" class="size-medium wp-image-380" height="225" sizes="(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px" src="http://bit.ly/1Q3hM2y" srcset="http://bit.ly/1Q3hM2y 300x, http://bit.ly/1Pt3MJM 400x, http://bit.ly/1Pt3C57 1024x" title="LED controlled by GPIO" width="300" /></a></p>
<p class="wp-caption-text">LED controlled by GPIO</p>
</div>
<div id="attachment_846" class="wp-caption aligncenter">
<p><a href="http://bit.ly/1Q3iHQB" target="_blank"><img alt="" class="size-medium wp-image-846" height="300" src="http://bit.ly/1Pt4Ptf" title="Breadboard layout for GPIO controlled LED" width="267" /></a></p>
<p class="wp-caption-text">Breadboard layout for GPIO controlled LED</p>
</div>
<p>Do check against the wiring diagram to work out which pin on the connector to use. The LED will initially be off because normally the GPIO pins are initialised as inputs at power-on time.</p>
<p>If you haven’t already done so, <a href="http://bit.ly/1Q3iGMx" target="_blank" title="Download and Install">download and install wiringPi</a>. This will give you some libraries to use in C programs, but also a command-line program which we can use to test the GPIO with.</p>
<p>Type the commands:</p>
<pre>
gpio mode 0 out
gpio write 0 1
gpio write 0 0
</pre>
<p>If all has gone well, the LED should come on, then go off again. The first <em><strong>gpio</strong></em> command above sets pin 0 to output mode, the 2nd sets pin 0 to the value “1” – logic 1 which puts a 3.3v signal on the pin, and turns the LED on, and the last one turns it off again.</p>
<h4>A word about GPIO pin numberings…</h4>
<p>t’s often customary to refer to the GPIO pins on a microcontroller by the pin number on the chip originating the signal (or by the internal register name and bit-number). The <a href="http://bit.ly/26nCm2w" itemprop="url" target="_bank" title="Arduino"><strong>Arduino</strong></a> system decided that that was complex for newcomers and used a system called <strong><em>wiring</em></strong> which started the pin numbers at zero and worked upwards. This had the advantage of making sure that when they moved to new chips which possibly had different internal configurations, etc. the pin numbers would remain the same. I have adopted this scheme in my <em><strong>wiringPi</strong></em> library for the <a href="http://bit.ly/1T5ac2c" itemprop="url" target="_bank" title="Raspberry"><strong>Raspberry</strong></a> Pi, but I also allow for the native GPIO numbering scheme too. You will probably see the GPIO numbering scheme elsewhere though, so I’ll give examples using both schemes.</p>
<p>If you look at the <a href="http://bit.ly/1Q3iFYS" target="_blank" title="Pins">pins chart</a>, then it gives both values. You can see that <em><strong>wiringPi</strong></em> pin 0 is GPIO-17. <em><strong>wiringPi</strong></em> pin 1 is GPIO-18, <em><strong>wiringPi</strong></em> pin 2 is GPIO-21 an so on. To use the GPIO pin numbering then you need to pass the -g flag to the <strong><em>gpio</em></strong> program:</p>
<pre>
gpio -g write 17 1
gpio -g write 17 0
</pre>
<p>This should turn the LED on then off again.</p>
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A single LED – tutorial simple part 1

Before we even get started with the GPIO, lets make an LED light up by simply wiring it to the +3.3v supply and 0v. Single LED Lit up ...

Software for RaspBerry Pi

Wall's Corners

Link Author

Title: Software for RaspBerry Pi
Author: Wall's Corners
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We can write the program to control the simulator in a variety of languages. Using the gpio program we can do it in a simple shell script (...

Software for RaspBerry Pi

We can write the program to control the simulator in a variety of languages. Using the gpio program we can do it in a simple shell script (...

More LEDs and a Button – part 3

Wall's Corners

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Title: More LEDs and a Button – part 3
Author: Wall's Corners
Rating 5 of 5 Des:

We’ll add 2 more LEDs and a button now and here is the final photo: The Tux Crossing Board Finished Tux Crossing – Breadboard layout ...

<p>We’ll add 2 more LEDs and a button now and here is the final photo:</p>
<div id="attachment_386" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><a href="http://bit.ly/1S4RHdy" target="_blank"><img alt="The Tux Crossing Board" class="size-medium wp-image-386" height="222" sizes="(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px" src="http://bit.ly/1YqnFIs" srcset="http://bit.ly/1YqnFIs 300x, http://bit.ly/1S4RHdy 1024x" title="The Tux Crossing Board" width="300" /></a>
<p class="wp-caption-text">The Tux Crossing Board</p>
</div>
<div id="attachment_838" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><a href="http://bit.ly/1S4RrLE" target="_blank"><img alt="Tux Crossing" class="size-medium wp-image-838" height="300" src="http://bit.ly/1YqmTLF" title="Tux Crossing" width="264" /></a>
<p class="wp-caption-text">Finished Tux Crossing – Breadboard layout</p>
</div>
<p>So we now have a traffic light/pelican (Tux!) crossing simulator.</p>
<p>The 2nd Red <a href="http://bit.ly/1WT6RcH" itemprop="url" target="_bank" title="LED"><strong>LED</strong></a> is connected to <em><strong>wiringPi</strong></em> pin 3, (GPIO-22), and the 2nd Green LED is connected to <em><strong>wiringPi</strong></em> pin 4, (GPIO-23).</p>
<p>Test them as before with the <em><strong>gpio</strong></em> command, e.g.</p>
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<pre>
for i in 0 1 2 3 4 ; do gpio mode $i out; done
for i in 0 1 2 3 4 ; do gpio write $i 1; done
for i in 0 1 2 3 4 ; do gpio write $i 0; done
</pre>
<p>The button is connected to <strong><em>wiringPi</em></strong> pin 8, (GPIO-0/SDA0), and the other side is connected to 0v. This pin has a 1.8KΩ resistor connecting it to +3.3v on the <a href="http://bit.ly/26nCm2K" itemprop="url" target="_bank" title="Raspberry"><strong>Raspberry</strong></a> Pi board. What this means is that when we set the pin to input mode and read the value, we are going to read in a logic high value (or 1 in our number terms), and when we push the button we connect the pin to 0v then the input will read a logic low value, or zero. This may appear to be the opposite way round to what we might expect, but we can easily cater for it in our programs.</p>
<p>Some designs for connecting buttons to the Rasberry Pi may include additional resistors, designed to protect the chips pin should you accidentally program it as an output. It’s not strictly necessary, but if you do program it as output, and write a high value to the pin, then you run the risk of damaging the pin, and possibly the chip.</p>
<p>We read the button as follows:</p>
<pre>
gpio mode 8 input
gpio read 8
</pre>
<p>The <em><strong>gpio</strong></em> program will print 1 or 0 depending on the state of the button. Expect it to print 1 when the button is not pressed, and print 0 when it is pressed.</p>
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More LEDs and a Button – part 3

We’ll add 2 more LEDs and a button now and here is the final photo: The Tux Crossing Board Finished Tux Crossing – Breadboard layout ...

A single LED – tutorial simple part 1

Wall's Corners

Link Author

Title: A single LED – tutorial simple part 1
Author: Wall's Corners
Rating 5 of 5 Des:

Before we even get started with the GPIO, lets make an LED light up by simply wiring it to the +3.3v supply and 0v. Single LED Lit up ...

<p>Before we even get started with the GPIO, lets make an LED <a href="http://bit.ly/1VNpzU4" itemprop="url" target="_bank" title="light"><strong>light</strong></a> up by simply wiring it to the +3.3v supply and 0v.</p>
<div id="attachment_378" class="wp-caption aligncenter">
<p><a href="http://bit.ly/1Q3iXit" target="_blank"><img alt="Single LED" class="size-medium wp-image-378" height="225" sizes="(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px" src="http://bit.ly/1Pt4JBS" srcset="http://bit.ly/1Pt4JBS 300x, http://bit.ly/1Q3icG4 400x, http://bit.ly/1Q3iXit 1024x" title="Single LED" width="300" /></a></p>
<p class="wp-caption-text">Single LED Lit up</p>
</div>
<div id="attachment_919" class="wp-caption aligncenter">
<p><a href="http://bit.ly/1Pt4oz2" target="_blank"><img alt="One LED on the 3.3v supply" class="size-medium wp-image-919" height="300" sizes="(max-width: 267px) 100vw, 267px" src="http://bit.ly/1Q3i5u3" srcset="http://bit.ly/1Q3i5u3 267x, http://bit.ly/1Pt4dnt 911x, http://bit.ly/1Pt4oz2 948x" title="One LED on the 3.3v supply" width="267" /></a></p>
<p class="wp-caption-text">One LED on the 3.3v supply</p>
</div>
<p> </p>
<p>So… We have a yellow wire from the Pi’s +3.3v supply to the breadboard and this connects to an LED then via a 270Ω (ohm) resistor to 0v. The green wire connects back to the Pi.</p>
<p>(Note that here and in the following pages, the <em>Fritzing</em> breadboard layout is slightly different from the photos – it’s the same circuit, just laid out in a way that makes it easy to see in the images)</p>
<p>Refer to the <a href="http://bit.ly/1Q3iFYS" target="_blank" title="Pins">diagram here</a> to work out the pins we’re using. From this view the 3.3v pin on the GPIO connector is to the top-left, or pin number 1 on the connector.</p>
<p>In electronics terms, our circuit diagram looks like this:</p>
<div id="attachment_412" class="wp-caption aligncenter">
<p><a href="http://bit.ly/1Pt5BGs" target="_blank"><img alt="LED Circuit diagram" class="size-medium wp-image-412" height="300" src="http://bit.ly/1Q3iGfo" title="LED Circuit diagram" width="205" /></a></p>
<p class="wp-caption-text">LED Circuit diagram</p>
</div>
<p>A quick word about the electronics involved. LEDs are <a href="http://bit.ly/1Pt3Au6" itemprop="url" target="_bank" title="Light"><strong>Light</strong></a> Emitting Diodes and the diode part is important for us – they only pass electricity one way, so we need to make sure we put them in the right way round. They have a long leg and a slightly shorter leg. The long leg goes to the plus side and the shorter leg to the negative (or 0v) side. If we’re cut the legs short (as I have done here), then another way is to look at the side of the LED – there will be a flat section. Think of the flat as a minus sign and connect that to the 0v side of the circuit.</p>
<p>If we allow too much current through the LED, it will burn very bright for a very short period of time before it burns out, so we need a resistor to limit the current. Calculating the resistor value is not difficult but for now, just use anything from 270Ω to 330Ω. Anything higher will make the LED dimmer.</p>
<p>So now we have a lit LED. What we really need to do is make it easily turn on and offable – preferably by a command or program running on the <a href="http://bit.ly/1T5ac2c" itemprop="url" target="_bank" title="Raspberry"><strong>Raspberry</strong></a> Pi.</p>
<p>We need to move the yellow wire to one of the programmable GPIO pins. We’ll move it to <em><strong>wiringPi</strong></em> pin 0 (GPIO-17) which is notionally the first user GPIO pin. (It’s physical location is pin 11 on the GPIO connector)</p>
<div id="attachment_380" class="wp-caption aligncenter">
<p><a href="http://bit.ly/1Pt3C57" target="_blank"><img alt="LED controlled by GPIO" class="size-medium wp-image-380" height="225" sizes="(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px" src="http://bit.ly/1Q3hM2y" srcset="http://bit.ly/1Q3hM2y 300x, http://bit.ly/1Pt3MJM 400x, http://bit.ly/1Pt3C57 1024x" title="LED controlled by GPIO" width="300" /></a></p>
<p class="wp-caption-text">LED controlled by GPIO</p>
</div>
<div id="attachment_846" class="wp-caption aligncenter">
<p><a href="http://bit.ly/1Q3iHQB" target="_blank"><img alt="" class="size-medium wp-image-846" height="300" src="http://bit.ly/1Pt4Ptf" title="Breadboard layout for GPIO controlled LED" width="267" /></a></p>
<p class="wp-caption-text">Breadboard layout for GPIO controlled LED</p>
</div>
<p>Do check against the wiring diagram to work out which pin on the connector to use. The LED will initially be off because normally the GPIO pins are initialised as inputs at power-on time.</p>
<p>If you haven’t already done so, <a href="http://bit.ly/1Q3iGMx" target="_blank" title="Download and Install">download and install wiringPi</a>. This will give you some libraries to use in C programs, but also a command-line program which we can use to test the GPIO with.</p>
<p>Type the commands:</p>
<pre>
gpio mode 0 out
gpio write 0 1
gpio write 0 0
</pre>
<p>If all has gone well, the LED should come on, then go off again. The first <em><strong>gpio</strong></em> command above sets pin 0 to output mode, the 2nd sets pin 0 to the value “1” – logic 1 which puts a 3.3v signal on the pin, and turns the LED on, and the last one turns it off again.</p>
<h4>A word about GPIO pin numberings…</h4>
<p>t’s often customary to refer to the GPIO pins on a microcontroller by the pin number on the chip originating the signal (or by the internal register name and bit-number). The <a href="http://bit.ly/26nCm2w" itemprop="url" target="_bank" title="Arduino"><strong>Arduino</strong></a> system decided that that was complex for newcomers and used a system called <strong><em>wiring</em></strong> which started the pin numbers at zero and worked upwards. This had the advantage of making sure that when they moved to new chips which possibly had different internal configurations, etc. the pin numbers would remain the same. I have adopted this scheme in my <em><strong>wiringPi</strong></em> library for the Raspberry Pi, but I also allow for the native GPIO numbering scheme too. You will probably see the GPIO numbering scheme elsewhere though, so I’ll give examples using both schemes.</p>
<p>If you look at the <a href="http://bit.ly/1Q3iFYS" target="_blank" title="Pins">pins chart</a>, then it gives both values. You can see that <em><strong>wiringPi</strong></em> pin 0 is GPIO-17. <em><strong>wiringPi</strong></em> pin 1 is GPIO-18, <em><strong>wiringPi</strong></em> pin 2 is GPIO-21 an so on. To use the GPIO pin numbering then you need to pass the -g flag to the <strong><em>gpio</em></strong> program:</p>
<pre>
gpio -g write 17 1
gpio -g write 17 0
</pre>
<p>This should turn the LED on then off again.</p>
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A single LED – tutorial simple part 1

Before we even get started with the GPIO, lets make an LED light up by simply wiring it to the +3.3v supply and 0v. Single LED Lit up ...

Wave your hand to control OWI Robotic Arm… no strings attached

Wall's Corners

Link Author

Title: Wave your hand to control OWI Robotic Arm… no strings attached
Author: Wall's Corners
Rating 5 of 5 Des:

THE IDEA: There are at least 4 other projects on Instructables.com (as of May 13, 2015) around modifying or controlling OWI Robotic Arm....

<p><iframe width="678" height="381" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/7docrKlnpbA?feature=oembed" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen=""></iframe></p>
<div class="step-container">
<div class="step-body">
<h3><strong>THE IDEA:</strong></h3>
<p>There are at least 4 other projects on Instructables.com (as of May 13, 2015) around modifying or controlling OWI Robotic Arm. Not surprisingly, since it is such a great and inexpensive robotic kit to play with. This project is similar in spirit (i.e, control the Robotic Arm with Arduino), but different in the approach.</p>
<p><iframe width="678" height="381" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/7docrKlnpbA?feature=oembed" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen=""></iframe></p>
<p> </p>
<p>The idea is to be able to <strong>control</strong> the Robotic Arm <strong>wirelessly</strong> using <strong>gestures</strong>. Also, I tried to keep modifications of the Robotic Arm to a minimum, so it could still be used with the original controller.</p>
<p>Sounds simple.</p>
<p>What it ended up being is a three-part project:</p>
<ol>
<li>A glove fitted with enough sensors to control a <a href="http://bit.ly/1UhB2tm" itemprop="url" target="_bank" title="LED"><strong>LED</strong></a> and 5 motors</li>
<li>An Arduino Nano based transmitter device to accept control commands from the glove and send it wirelessly to the Arm controller device</li>
<li>An Arduino Uno-based wireless receiver and motor control device attached to the OWI Robotic Arm</li>
</ol>
<h3><strong>FEATURES</strong></h3>
<ol>
<li>Support for all 5 Degrees Of Freedom (DOF) and the LED</li>
<li>Big Red Button – to immediately stop the motors on the Arm preventing damage</li>
<li>Portable modular design</li>
</ol>
<p>For mobile users: the “promotional video” of this project is on YouTube <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7docrKlnpbA" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">here</a>.</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="step-container">
<h2 id="step1" class="step-title">Step 1: Parts</h2>
<div id="photoset-SRLQ0PMI9OSU0B0" class="photoset" data-item-id="SRLQ0PMI9OSU0B0" data-item-url="http://bit.ly/1RXwWR0">
<div class="photoset-row cols-1">
<div class="photoset-cell image-cell">
<div class="photoset-item photoset-image"><a class="photoset-link" data-fancybox-group="photoset-gallery-SRLQ0PMI9OSU0B0" data-fancybox-href="http://bit.ly/1RXwdPO" href="http://bit.ly/1XFB3ty" target="_blank"><img alt="Picture of Parts" data-image-id="F9PLL45I9OSU4IL" data-large="http://bit.ly/1RXwdPO" data-medium="http://bit.ly/1XFBjc6" data-notes="[]" data-orig-height="576" data-orig-width="576" data-original="http://bit.ly/1XFBjc6" data-original-image="http://bit.ly/1RXwli5" data-pin-no-hover="true" data-small="http://bit.ly/1XFBpk5" src="http://bit.ly/1XFBjc6" /></a></div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<div class="step-body">
<h3><strong>GLOVE:</strong></h3>
<p>You will need the following to build a glove controller:</p>
<ol>
<li>Isotoner Smartouch Tech Stretch Stitched Glove (or similar) – <a href="http://goo.gl/aXmfIf" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">on Amazon.com</a></li>
<li>Spectra Symboflex Sensor 2.2″ – <a href="http://goo.gl/JkwZkr" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">on Amazon.com</a></li>
<li>GY-521 6DOF MPU6050 3 Axis Gyroscope + Accelerometer Module – <a href="http://bit.ly/1RXw66H" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">on Fasttech.com</a></li>
<li>2X5 BOX HEADER STRAIGHT – <a href="http://bit.ly/1XFA9xk" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">on Phoenixent.com</a></li>
<li>2X5 IDC SOCKET-RECEPTACLE – <a href="http://bit.ly/1RXxciQ" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">on Phoenixent.com</a></li>
<li>FLAT RIBBON CABLE 10 Conductor .050″ Pitch – <a href="http://bit.ly/1XFA64G" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">on Phoenixent.com</a></li>
<li>2 x 5mm LEDs – Green and Yellow</li>
<li>2 x Small Buttons</li>
<li>Resistors, wires, needle, black thread, glue gun, soldering gun, solder, etc.</li>
</ol>
<h3><strong> </strong></h3>
<h3><strong>TRANSMISSION STRAP-ON BOX:</strong></h3>
<ol>
<li>Arduino Compatible Nano v3.0 ATmega328P-20AU Board – <a href="http://bit.ly/1RXwVwm" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">on Fasttech.com</a></li>
<li>nRF24L01+ 2.4GHz Wireless Transceiver Arduino Compatible – <a href="http://goo.gl/p5SP49" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">on Amazon.com</a></li>
<li>Gymboss WRISTBAND – <a href="http://goo.gl/HwFHtA" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">on Amazon.com</a></li>
<li>9V Battery Holder Box Case with Wire Lead ON/OFF Switch – <a href="http://goo.gl/LatCVT" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">on Amazon.com</a></li>
<li>2X5 BOX HEADER STRAIGHT – on <a href="http://bit.ly/1XFA9xk" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Phoenixent.com</a></li>
<li>9v battery</li>
<li>47uF (50v) capacitor</li>
<li>Resistors, wires, glue gun, soldering gun, solder, etc.</li>
</ol>
<h3>OWI <a href="http://bit.ly/1XFAoZ7" itemprop="url" target="_bank" title="ROBOTIC"><strong>ROBOTIC</strong></a> ARM CONTROLLER BOX:</h3>
<ol>
<li>Arduino Compatible Uno R3 Rev3 Development Board – <a href="http://bit.ly/1RXwhiy" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">on Fasttech.com</a></li>
<li>Prototype Shield DIY KIT for Arduino (or similar) – <a href="http://goo.gl/ptwYMo" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">on Amazon.com</a></li>
<li>nRF24L01+ 2.4GHz Wireless Transceiver Arduino Compatible – <a href="http://goo.gl/p5SP49" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">on Amazon.com</a></li>
<li>3 x L293D 16-pin Integrated Circuit IC Motor Driver – <a href="http://bit.ly/1XFAvnx" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">on Fasttech.com</a></li>
<li>1 x SN74HC595 74HC595 8-Bit Shift Register With 3-State Output Registers DIP16 – <a href="http://goo.gl/OsjSK2" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">on Amazon.com</a></li>
<li>47uF (50v) capacitor</li>
<li>Box for Arduino – <a href="http://goo.gl/Emh3TE" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">on Amazon.com</a></li>
<li>On/Off switch</li>
<li>2 x 13mm buttons (one Red and one Green caps)</li>
<li>2 x 2X7 BOX HEADER STRAIGHT – same as above on Phoenixent.com</li>
<li>FLAT RIBBON CABLE 14 Conductor .050″ Pitch – same as above on Phoenixent.com</li>
<li>9v battery + clip-on connector</li>
<li>Resistors, wires, glue gun, soldering gun, solder, etc.</li>
</ol>
<p>… and of course:</p>
<p><strong>OWI Robotic Arm Edge – Robot arm – OWI-535</strong> – <a href="http://goo.gl/CgpcpM" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">on Adafruit.com</a></p>
</div>
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Wave your hand to control OWI Robotic Arm… no strings attached

THE IDEA: There are at least 4 other projects on Instructables.com (as of May 13, 2015) around modifying or controlling OWI Robotic Arm....

Wave your hand to control OWI Robotic Arm… no strings attached

Wall's Corners

Link Author

Title: Wave your hand to control OWI Robotic Arm… no strings attached
Author: Wall's Corners
Rating 5 of 5 Des:

THE IDEA: There are at least 4 other projects on Instructables.com (as of May 13, 2015) around modifying or controlling OWI Robotic Arm....

<p><iframe width="678" height="381" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/7docrKlnpbA?feature=oembed" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen=""></iframe></p>
<div class="step-container">
<div class="step-body">
<h3><strong>THE IDEA:</strong></h3>
<p>There are at least 4 other projects on Instructables.com (as of May 13, 2015) around modifying or controlling OWI Robotic Arm. Not surprisingly, since it is such a great and inexpensive robotic kit to play with. This project is similar in spirit (i.e, control the Robotic Arm with Arduino), but different in the approach.</p>
<p><iframe width="678" height="381" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/7docrKlnpbA?feature=oembed" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen=""></iframe></p>
<p> </p>
<p>The idea is to be able to <strong>control</strong> the Robotic Arm <strong>wirelessly</strong> using <strong>gestures</strong>. Also, I tried to keep modifications of the Robotic Arm to a minimum, so it could still be used with the original controller.</p>
<p>Sounds simple.</p>
<p>What it ended up being is a three-part project:</p>
<ol>
<li>A glove fitted with enough sensors to control a <a href="http://bit.ly/1WT6RcH" itemprop="url" target="_bank" title="LED"><strong>LED</strong></a> and 5 motors</li>
<li>An Arduino Nano based transmitter device to accept control commands from the glove and send it wirelessly to the Arm controller device</li>
<li>An Arduino Uno-based wireless receiver and motor control device attached to the OWI Robotic Arm</li>
</ol>
<h3><strong>FEATURES</strong></h3>
<ol>
<li>Support for all 5 Degrees Of Freedom (DOF) and the LED</li>
<li>Big Red Button – to immediately stop the motors on the Arm preventing damage</li>
<li>Portable modular design</li>
</ol>
<p>For mobile users: the “promotional video” of this project is on YouTube <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7docrKlnpbA" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">here</a>.</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="step-container">
<h2 id="step1" class="step-title">Step 1: Parts</h2>
<div id="photoset-SRLQ0PMI9OSU0B0" class="photoset" data-item-id="SRLQ0PMI9OSU0B0" data-item-url="http://bit.ly/1RXwWR0">
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<div class="photoset-item photoset-image"><a class="photoset-link" data-fancybox-group="photoset-gallery-SRLQ0PMI9OSU0B0" data-fancybox-href="http://bit.ly/1RXwdPO" href="http://bit.ly/1XFB3ty" target="_blank"><img alt="Picture of Parts" data-image-id="F9PLL45I9OSU4IL" data-large="http://bit.ly/1RXwdPO" data-medium="http://bit.ly/1XFBjc6" data-notes="[]" data-orig-height="576" data-orig-width="576" data-original="http://bit.ly/1XFBjc6" data-original-image="http://bit.ly/1RXwli5" data-pin-no-hover="true" data-small="http://bit.ly/1XFBpk5" src="http://bit.ly/1XFBjc6" /></a></div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<div class="step-body">
<h3><strong>GLOVE:</strong></h3>
<p>You will need the following to build a glove controller:</p>
<ol>
<li>Isotoner Smartouch Tech Stretch Stitched Glove (or similar) – <a href="http://goo.gl/aXmfIf" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">on Amazon.com</a></li>
<li>Spectra Symboflex Sensor 2.2″ – <a href="http://goo.gl/JkwZkr" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">on Amazon.com</a></li>
<li>GY-521 6DOF MPU6050 3 Axis Gyroscope + Accelerometer Module – <a href="http://bit.ly/1RXw66H" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">on Fasttech.com</a></li>
<li>2X5 BOX HEADER STRAIGHT – <a href="http://bit.ly/1XFA9xk" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">on Phoenixent.com</a></li>
<li>2X5 IDC SOCKET-RECEPTACLE – <a href="http://bit.ly/1RXxciQ" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">on Phoenixent.com</a></li>
<li>FLAT RIBBON CABLE 10 Conductor .050″ Pitch – <a href="http://bit.ly/1XFA64G" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">on Phoenixent.com</a></li>
<li>2 x 5mm LEDs – Green and Yellow</li>
<li>2 x Small Buttons</li>
<li>Resistors, wires, needle, black thread, glue gun, soldering gun, solder, etc.</li>
</ol>
<h3><strong> </strong></h3>
<h3><strong>TRANSMISSION STRAP-ON BOX:</strong></h3>
<ol>
<li>Arduino Compatible Nano v3.0 ATmega328P-20AU Board – <a href="http://bit.ly/1RXwVwm" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">on Fasttech.com</a></li>
<li>nRF24L01+ 2.4GHz Wireless Transceiver Arduino Compatible – <a href="http://goo.gl/p5SP49" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">on Amazon.com</a></li>
<li>Gymboss WRISTBAND – <a href="http://goo.gl/HwFHtA" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">on Amazon.com</a></li>
<li>9V Battery Holder Box Case with Wire Lead ON/OFF Switch – <a href="http://goo.gl/LatCVT" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">on Amazon.com</a></li>
<li>2X5 BOX HEADER STRAIGHT – on <a href="http://bit.ly/1XFA9xk" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Phoenixent.com</a></li>
<li>9v battery</li>
<li>47uF (50v) capacitor</li>
<li>Resistors, wires, glue gun, soldering gun, solder, etc.</li>
</ol>
<h3>OWI <a href="http://bit.ly/1XFAoZ7" itemprop="url" target="_bank" title="ROBOTIC"><strong>ROBOTIC</strong></a> ARM CONTROLLER BOX:</h3>
<ol>
<li>Arduino Compatible Uno R3 Rev3 Development Board – <a href="http://bit.ly/1RXwhiy" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">on Fasttech.com</a></li>
<li>Prototype Shield DIY KIT for Arduino (or similar) – <a href="http://goo.gl/ptwYMo" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">on Amazon.com</a></li>
<li>nRF24L01+ 2.4GHz Wireless Transceiver Arduino Compatible – <a href="http://goo.gl/p5SP49" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">on Amazon.com</a></li>
<li>3 x L293D 16-pin Integrated Circuit IC Motor Driver – <a href="http://bit.ly/1XFAvnx" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">on Fasttech.com</a></li>
<li>1 x SN74HC595 74HC595 8-Bit Shift Register With 3-State Output Registers DIP16 – <a href="http://goo.gl/OsjSK2" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">on Amazon.com</a></li>
<li>47uF (50v) capacitor</li>
<li>Box for Arduino – <a href="http://goo.gl/Emh3TE" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">on Amazon.com</a></li>
<li>On/Off switch</li>
<li>2 x 13mm buttons (one Red and one Green caps)</li>
<li>2 x 2X7 BOX HEADER STRAIGHT – same as above on Phoenixent.com</li>
<li>FLAT RIBBON CABLE 14 Conductor .050″ Pitch – same as above on Phoenixent.com</li>
<li>9v battery + clip-on connector</li>
<li>Resistors, wires, glue gun, soldering gun, solder, etc.</li>
</ol>
<p>… and of course:</p>
<p><strong>OWI Robotic Arm Edge – Robot arm – OWI-535</strong> – <a href="http://goo.gl/CgpcpM" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">on Adafruit.com</a></p>
</div>
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View more at: <a href="http://bit.ly/1XReQFr">http://bit.ly/1XReQFr</a>

Wave your hand to control OWI Robotic Arm… no strings attached

THE IDEA: There are at least 4 other projects on Instructables.com (as of May 13, 2015) around modifying or controlling OWI Robotic Arm....

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