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Roshamglo Project: TV-B-Gone

Wall's Corners

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Title: Roshamglo Project: TV-B-Gone
Author: Wall's Corners
Rating 5 of 5 Des:

Introduction In addition to playing some infrared (IR) Rock-Paper-Scissors, you can use your Roshamglo badge for a number of fun activitie...

<h2 id="introduction">Introduction</h2>
<p>In addition to playing some infrared (IR) Rock-Paper-Scissors, you can use your <a href="http://bit.ly/2mVK4Sd" target="_blank">Roshamglo badge</a> for a number of fun activities, including sending IR commands to your TV (well, almost any TV, really).</p>
<p>A few years ago, <a href="http://bit.ly/2nLzCdy" target="_blank">Mitch Altman</a> designed an ATtiny85-based IR remote, known as <a href="http://bit.ly/2mVKWWL" target="_blank">TV-B-Gone</a><sup>®</sup>, that transmits the power code of popular televisions over the course of about a minute. Since then, several people have contributed to the open source code of TV-B-Gone, including <a href="http://bit.ly/2nLjvwq" target="_blank">Limor Fried</a> and <a href="http://bit.ly/2mVKXKj" target="_blank">Ken Shirriff</a>, who created an <a href="http://bit.ly/2nLrmKw" target="_blank">Arduino port of the program</a>.</p>
<div class="alert alert-info"><b>Note:</b> TV-B-Gone works by transmitting the “Power On/Off” signal in over 100 TV encoding schemes. It works for about 80% of the most popular manufacturers (e.g., Panasonic, Sony, RCA, Toshiba), but there is no support for some newer TV manufacturers (e.g., Insignia, Affinity).</div>
<h3>Required Materials</h3>
<p>You will need a <a href="http://bit.ly/2mVK4Sd" target="_blank">Roshamglo badge</a> and, optionally, a resistor between 47Ω and 1kΩ. We recommend the <a href="http://bit.ly/2mVKY0P" target="_blank">Resistor Kit</a>, as it has several different resistor options to play with.</p>
<h4>Tools</h4>
<p>If you plan to add a resistor to your Roshamglo badge to increase the IR range, you will need a <a href="http://bit.ly/2nLwYEF" target="_blank">soldering iron</a> and <a href="http://bit.ly/2mVJpA7" target="_blank">solder</a>.</p>
<div class="section tutorial-page">
<h2 id="hardware-assembly-optional">Hardware Assembly (Optional)</h2>
<p>In its default state, the Roshamglo badge has an IR transmission range of about 5 feet. This was done by design to prevent people from bouncing signals off other people and interrupting Rock-Paper-Scissors games.</p>
<p>However, 5 feet is a little short for being able to control a TV from across the room. You don’t need to upgrade the hardware, but if you do, you can easily shoot TV beams from 40+ feet away.</p>
<p>First, choose a resistor value you want to use to upgrade your badge’s range. Something between 47Ω (40+ feet range) and 1kΩ (around 10 feet) will work the best. Note that the resistor will be in parallel with the 1.5kΩ resistor that’s already on the board. To help you decide what to choose, here are some common resistor values that should work:</p>
<table class="table table-hover table-striped table-bordered">
<tbody>
<tr>
<th>Resistor</th>
<th>Current Through LED</th>
<th>Predicted Range</th>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>47Ω</td>
<td>37mA</td>
<td>40 feet</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>100Ω</td>
<td>18mA</td>
<td>20 feet</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>220Ω</td>
<td>9mA</td>
<td>12 feet</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>330Ω</td>
<td>6mA</td>
<td>10 feet</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>470Ω</td>
<td>5mA</td>
<td>8 feet</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>1kΩ</td>
<td>3mA</td>
<td>6 feet</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Open</td>
<td>1mA</td>
<td>5 feet</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<div class="alert alert-warning"><b>Note:</b> If you want the maximum range, just use a <b>47Ω resistor</b>. You could get away with a smaller resistor, and therefore more current, but keep in mind the IR <a href="http://bit.ly/1WT6RcH" itemprop="url" target="_bank" title="LED"><strong>LED</strong></a> is rated for a maximum of 70mA. Things could get hot.</div>
<p>In the corner of the Roshamglo board, by the USB connector, you will see two holes situated diagonally toward the center of the board with the label <code>R_Ext</code>.</p>
<p><a href="http://bit.ly/2mVKYhl" target="_blank"><img alt="Resistor holes on Roshamglo" src="http://bit.ly/2nLnc5v" /></a></p>
<p>Solder your chosen resistor into those holes. We recommend bending the resistor’s leads so that the resistor folds nicely onto the board and does not touch other components.</p>
<p><a href="http://bit.ly/2mVB9ju" target="_blank"><img alt="Extra resistor added to Roshamglo" src="http://bit.ly/2nLAwGV" /></a></p>
<p><em>Resistor bent between components</em></p>
</div>
<div class="section tutorial-page">
<h2 id="programming">Programming</h2>
<p>Before we load the TV-B-Gone code onto the Roshamglo badge, we’ll need to install Arduino and the Roshamglo board definitions. Follow the instructions in the tutorial below to make sure you can send new programs to your Roshamglo board.</p>
<div class="tile-wrap">
<div class="tile tutorial-tile has_addl_actions big grid" data-id="605">
<div class="thumb-wrap"></div>
<p><a href="http://bit.ly/2mVNwwd" target="_blank"><span class="new">New!</span></a></p>
<h3 class="title">Hack Your Roshamglo Badge</h3>
<h4 class="metaline">MARCH 12, 2017</h4>
<div class="description">Learn how to customize and program your Roshamglo badge.</div>
</div>
</div>
<div class="clearfix"></div>
<div class="alert alert-info"><b>Note:</b> We are using a version of the TV-B-Gone software that has been modified to work on Roshamglo. A few of the TV codes have been removed in order to make it fit into the 6k of program memory available on the badge’s microcontroller.</div>
<p>Download the <a href="http://bit.ly/2nLGGGS" target="_blank">Roshamglo Project Repository</a> as a .zip file:</p>
<p><a class="btn btn-default" href="http://bit.ly/2mVFIKM" target="_blank">DOWNLOAD THE ROSHAMGLO PROJECT</a></p>
<p>Unzip it. Open the Arduino IDE and select <strong>File > Open</strong>. Navigate to <strong><Roshamglo Project Directory>/Firmware/Examples/Roshamglo-TV-B-Gone</strong>. Open the <strong>Roshamglo-TV-B-Gone.ino</strong> file.</p>
<p><a href="http://bit.ly/2nLmeWS" target="_blank"><img alt="Roshamglo TV-B-Gone Arduino code" src="http://bit.ly/2nLmeWS" /></a></p>
<p>By default, the Roshamglo-TV-B-Gone code supports North American IR codes. To change them to support European Union codes, click on the <strong>main.h</strong> tab and change</p>
<div class="copy-code" data-code-id="code-0"><button class="btn btn-default btn-sm">COPY CODE</button></div>
<pre data-language="language:c ,c">
<code class="rainbow"><span class="comment">#define REGION NA</span>
</code>
</pre>
<p>to</p>
<div class="copy-code" data-code-id="code-1"><button class="btn btn-default btn-sm">COPY CODE</button></div>
<pre data-language="language:c ,c">
<code class="rainbow"><span class="comment">#define REGION EU</span>
</code>
</pre>
<p><a href="http://bit.ly/2mVw3Um" target="_blank"><img alt="Changing TV-B-Gone to support European Union IR codes" src="http://bit.ly/2mVw3Um" /></a></p>
<p>Select <strong>Tools > Board > Roshamglo</strong>.</p>
<p><a href="http://bit.ly/2nLkyNc" target="_blank"><img alt="Programming Roshamglo badge with TV-B-Gone firmware" src="http://bit.ly/2mVItf2" /></a></p>
<p>Click the <strong>Upload</strong> button.</p>
<p><a href="http://bit.ly/2nLjtoi" target="_blank"><img alt="Uploading the firmware from Arduino" src="http://bit.ly/2nLjtoi" /></a></p>
<p>Wait for <strong>Uploading</strong> to appear at the bottom of the Arduino window.</p>
<p><a href="http://bit.ly/2mVInEb" target="_blank"><img alt="Waiting for Roshamglo badge in Arduino" src="http://bit.ly/2mVInEb" /></a></p>
<p>At this point, make sure your Roshamglo badge is <strong>OFF</strong>, and press and hold the <strong>Down</strong> button on the Roshamglo badge (hold the five-way switch toward the <em>SparkFun</em> logo). While holding the <strong>Down</strong> button, insert the badge into an available USB slot on your computer.</p>
<p><a href="http://bit.ly/2nLmcOK" target="_blank"><img alt="Putting Roshamglo into bootloader mode" src="http://bit.ly/2mVzWcf" /></a></p>
<p>The program should be uploaded from Arduino. You should see a <em>Done Uploading</em> message appear.</p>
<p><a href="http://bit.ly/2nLDyuP" target="_blank"><img alt="Finished uploading TV-B-Gone firmware to Roshamglo from Arduino" src="http://bit.ly/2nLDyuP" /></a></p>
<div class="alert alert-info"><b>Note:</b> If you get an error message while uploading, it could be caused by a variety of reasons. The way we’re uploading programs to Roshamglo is actually hacked together, as we’re <a href="http://bit.ly/2mVA1MV" target="_blank">emulating USB</a> on the badge, which many computers do not like. Here are some things to try if you do get an error:
<ul>
<li>Try a different USB port</li>
<li>Unplug other USB devices</li>
<li>Close other programs that might be running</li>
<li>Reinstall the <a href="http://bit.ly/2nLkwF4" target="_blank">Roshamglo USB driver</a></li>
<li>Try a different computer</li>
</ul>
</div>
</div>
<div class="section tutorial-page">
<h2 id="try-it-out">Try It Out</h2>
<p>Turn on your Roshamglo badge. If North American IR codes were chosen (default), the green <a href="http://bit.ly/1UhB2tm" itemprop="url" target="_bank" title="LED"><strong>LED</strong></a> will blink three times. If EU codes were chosen, the green LED will blink six times.</p>
<p>Find a nearby TV, aim the USB connector toward it and press down on the center button of the five-way switch. The green LED should begin to flash intermittently, which indicates that the IR codes are being sent. You can let go of the button at this point; the codes will continue to be sent. Note that it could take up to 72 seconds for all the codes to be transmitted; keep pointing the badge at your target.</p>
<p><a href="http://bit.ly/2nLgFI2" target="_blank"><img alt="Turn off a TV with your Roshamglo badge" src="http://bit.ly/2mVIEqF" /></a></p>
<p>With any luck, the TV should turn off (or perhaps on, as the IR codes for on and off are the same for many TVs).</p>
<div class="alert alert-info"><b>Note:</b> The beam width on Roshamglo’s IR LED is fairly narrow. You may have to point it directly at the TV’s IR receiver.</div>
<p>If you would like to cancel the 72 seconds of code transmission, you can either press the <em>RESET</em> button or turn the badge off using the side switch.</p>
</div>
<div class="section tutorial-page">
<h2 id="resources-and-going-further">Resources and Going Further</h2>
<p>This is just one example of something fun you can do with Roshamglo. For more information, check out the resources below:</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://bit.ly/2nLAuyN" target="_blank">Roshamglo Schematic PDF</a></li>
<li><a href="http://bit.ly/2mVFIKM" target="_blank">Eagle Design Files</a></li>
<li><a href="http://bit.ly/2mVEiQm" target="_blank">Roshamglo Source Code</a></li>
<li><a href="http://bit.ly/2nLGGGS" target="_blank">Roshamglo GitHub Repository</a></li>
</ul>
</div>
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View more at: <a href="http://bit.ly/1XReQFr">http://bit.ly/1XReQFr</a>

Roshamglo Project: TV-B-Gone

Introduction In addition to playing some infrared (IR) Rock-Paper-Scissors, you can use your Roshamglo badge for a number of fun activitie...

Pushing Data to Data.SparkFun.com

Wall's Corners

Link Author

Title: Pushing Data to Data.SparkFun.com
Author: Wall's Corners
Rating 5 of 5 Des:

SparkFun’s Data.SparkFun.com service allows you to easily push your data to the “cloud.” Whether you’re posting weather readings , office e...

<p>SparkFun’s <a href="http://bit.ly/2kaoesX" target="_blank">Data.SparkFun.com</a> service allows you to easily push your data to the “cloud.” Whether you’re posting <a href="http://bit.ly/2jFtcLx" target="_blank">weather readings</a>, <a href="http://bit.ly/2kaoMPP" target="_blank">office environment conditions</a>, or anything else, it can come in handy to have a central, online location to store those sensor readings. By sending a simple HTTP request to the Data.SparkFun.com server, your project data is stored and displayed in a simple database where it can be retrieved or reviewed at your leisure.</p>
<p><a href="http://bit.ly/2jFteTF" target="_blank"><img alt="SCreenshot of the stream" src="http://bit.ly/2ku8Nd7" /></a></p>
<p>Any electronics project that can be <strong>Internet-connected</strong> should be able to post data to the SparkFun data service. Luckily, these days – with Internet-of-Things applications taking off – there is no shortage of hardware gateways to the web. Basic Arduino’s can rely on shields for WiFi or Ethernet access, while many advanced development platforms already have WiFi or Ethernet built-in.</p>
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<p><a href="http://bit.ly/2kbOdRz" target="_blank"><img alt="alt text" src="http://bit.ly/2kujegI" /></a></p>
<p><em>An assortment of shields and development boards that can be used as your hardware’s Internet gateway for Data.SparkFun.com.</em></p>
<p>This tutorial is a grab bag of example sketches and scripts that show how you can publish anything to our data service using most of today’s popular hardware platforms. Each example has a section dedicated to the example hookup, code and setup:</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://bit.ly/2kbAV7f" target="_blank">Arduino & Ethernet Shield</a> – The <a href="http://bit.ly/2ku3EBE" target="_blank">Ethernet Shield</a> has been one of the Arduino’s longest lasting Network portals around. If you don’t mind a few wires hanging out of your project, this shield is one of the most reliable options around. This example also works with the <a href="http://bit.ly/2kbyWjk" target="_blank">PoEthernet Shield</a>, or really any shield that uses the Ethernet library.</li>
<li><a href="http://bit.ly/2kue84e" target="_blank">Arduino & CC3000 Shield</a> – The <a href="http://bit.ly/2kbOfJb" target="_blank">CC3000 WiFi Shield</a> is one of our newest offerings to the WiFi Shield market. Because it’s relatively low-cost and reliable, it’s a great choice if you’re short on RJ-45 ports or Cat5 cable.</li>
<li><a href="http://bit.ly/2kuhILE" target="_blank">Arduino & WiFly Shield</a> – The <a href="http://bit.ly/2kbEWsI" target="_blank">WiFly Shield</a> is another long-surviving shield that makes connecting your ‘duino to WiFi easy. Not as cheap as the CC3000, but a good option if you’ve already got a Shield lying around.</li>
<li><a href="http://bit.ly/2ku6Q00" target="_blank">Arduino Yun</a> – Internet-of-things applications like this are what the <a href="http://bit.ly/2kbEkTH" target="_blank">Arduino Yun</a> was made for. With built in Ethernet, WiFi, and even Linux, not much stands in the way of your data on its way to the web.</li>
<li><a href="http://bit.ly/2kuqWr1" target="_blank">Raspberry Pi (using Python)</a> – With a full Linux kernel at its fingertips, the <a href="http://bit.ly/2kaxXQ3" target="_blank">Raspberry Pi</a> should have no problems posting an HTTP request. In this example we’ll use Python, which allows us to toggle I/O at the same time.</li>
<li><a href="http://bit.ly/2kbEYkk" target="_blank">Electric Imp</a> – A prerequisite to using the <a href="http://bit.ly/2kugHD9" target="_blank">Electric Imp</a> is that it must be Internet-connected to download code. With its ability to work with web “agents”, the it’s easy to get the imp posting HTTP requests.</li>
</ul>
<p>Each section of the tutorial will demonstrate an example sketch for a particular piece, or combination of hardware. But before clicking over to the platform you plan on using, check out the <a href="http://bit.ly/2kbyYaW" target="_blank">What is Phant?</a> first. That’s where we’ll demonstrate how to create a data stream and how to use it.</p>
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Pushing Data to Data.SparkFun.com

SparkFun’s Data.SparkFun.com service allows you to easily push your data to the “cloud.” Whether you’re posting weather readings , office e...

Pi Wedge B+ Hookup Guide

Wall's Corners

Link Author

Title: Pi Wedge B+ Hookup Guide
Author: Wall's Corners
Rating 5 of 5 Des:

Introduction The Raspberry Pi B+ is the latest revision of the Raspberry Pi Linux Computer Board. Differentiating it from the older Mode...

<div class="section tutorial-page">
<h2 id="introduction">Introduction</h2>
<p>The <a href="http://bit.ly/24g3KRD" target="_blank">Raspberry Pi B+</a> is the latest revision of the <a href="http://bit.ly/27ItTrs" itemprop="url" target="_bank" title="Raspberry Pi"><strong>Raspberry Pi</strong></a> Linux Computer Board. Differentiating it from the older Model B, the B+ features an extended <a href="http://bit.ly/26nCnnf" itemprop="url" target="_bank" title="GPIO"><strong>GPIO</strong></a> connector, with 40 pins, up from the Model B’s 26.</p>
<p><a href="http://bit.ly/2karbtw" target="_blank"><img alt="Raspberry Pi B+" src="http://bit.ly/2karbtw" /></a></p>
<p><em>The <a href="http://bit.ly/26nCm2K" itemprop="url" target="_bank" title="Raspberry"><strong>Raspberry</strong></a> Pi B+</em></p>
<p>To match the rearranged connector, we’re introducing the <a href="http://bit.ly/2kam2SB" target="_blank">Pi Wedge B+</a>, a small board that connects to the GPIO connector, and breaks the GPIO pins out into rows that work with solderless breadboards.</p>
<p><a href="http://bit.ly/2jFrjyn" target="_blank"><img alt="alt text" src="http://bit.ly/2jFrjyn" /></a></p>
<p><em>Pi Wedge B+ and Breadboard</em></p>
<p>If you’re using a <a href="http://bit.ly/2kaxXQ3" target="_blank">regular Model B</a> (not the plus version), we also have a <a href="http://bit.ly/2jFlr8h" target="_blank">Pi Wedge</a> for it.</p>
<p>This guide will show you how to assemble the Pi Wedge B+ and start using it with your <a href="http://bit.ly/1T5ac2c" itemprop="url" target="_bank" title="Raspberry"><strong>Raspberry</strong></a> Pi.</p>
<h3>Required Materials</h3>
<ul>
<li>The <a href="http://bit.ly/2jFlr8h" target="_blank">Pi Wedge B+</a> kit</li>
<li>A <a href="http://bit.ly/24g3KRD" target="_blank">Raspberry Pi B+</a> single board computer.</li>
<li>A <a href="http://bit.ly/24g3KRI" target="_blank">Solderless</a> <a href="http://bit.ly/1r9FX3C" target="_blank">Breadboard</a></li>
<li>An <a href="http://bit.ly/2jFpBgs" target="_blank">FTDI Basic</a></li>
<li>Your favorite <a href="http://bit.ly/1qUAs94" itemprop="url" target="_bank" title="I2C"><strong>I2C</strong></a>, SPI or GPIO-based peripherals</li>
<li>A <a href="http://bit.ly/2jFn7i3" target="_blank">soldering iron</a> and <a href="http://bit.ly/2kalaNv" target="_blank">leaded</a> or <a href="http://bit.ly/2jFrk5p" target="_blank">lead-free</a> solder</li>
</ul>
<h3>Suggested Reading</h3>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://bit.ly/2kamGiX" target="_blank">How To Use a Breadboard</a></li>
<li><a href="http://bit.ly/2jFfng6" target="_blank">Setting Up a Boot Card</a></li>
<li><a href="http://bit.ly/1ToVAex" target="_blank">Serial Communication</a></li>
<li><a href="http://bit.ly/24g3IJv" target="_blank">Serial Peripheral Interface</a></li>
<li><a href="http://bit.ly/1r9FXRc" target="_blank">I2C</a></li>
</ul>
<h3>Suggested Viewing</h3>
<ul>
<li>Getting Started With The Raspberry Pi
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b6h95jNWg1g" target="_blank">Part 1</a></li>
<li><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6HeRyrr4i9k" target="_blank">Part 2</a></li>
<li><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1tEMRCtXALM" target="_blank">Part 3</a></li>
</ul>
</li>
</ul>
</div>
<div class="section tutorial-page">
<h2 id="background">Background</h2>
<p>In the process of developing projects like the <a href="http://bit.ly/2jFo2yN" target="_blank">Twitter Monitor</a> and <a href="https://twitter.com/Gr8AmTweetRace" target="_blank">Great American Tweet Race</a> around the Raspberry Pi, we found that we were experiencing some growing pains when trying to expand the Pi into a prototype that involved external hardware.</p>
<p><a href="http://bit.ly/2kauBNh" target="_blank"><img alt="Bob Pease would be proud" src="http://bit.ly/2jFrR7e" /></a></p>
<p><em>There’s a Pi somewhere in this ratsnest</em></p>
<p>The Raspberry Pi Model B+ has a 40-pin connector that provides access to several communication interfaces, plus GPIO and power. But the connector doesn’t have detailed labeling, and the native pin arrangement is somewhat scattershot. Pins used for similar functions aren’t always grouped together, and power and ground pins are interspersed with no obvious pattern.</p>
<p>The pins also don’t translate to a solderless breadboard very easily. Our first projects used a bunch of <a href="http://bit.ly/2kaq3Gy" target="_blank">F-M jumper wires</a> that we just plugged into the header. They involved a lot of “ratsnest jiggling” when things stopped working.</p>
<h4>Bootstrapping</h4>
<p>In addition to the physical issues of using the I/O connector, getting started with a brand new Raspberry Pi B+ always seems to involve a chicken-and-egg situation. We just want to SSH into it, so we can use the command line. But in order to SSH to it, we need to know it’s IP address…and of course, the IP address is most easily learned by running <code>ifconfig</code> on the command line.</p>
<h3>The Solution</h3>
<p><a href="http://bit.ly/2jFrjyn" target="_blank"><img alt="Pi Wedge B+" src="http://bit.ly/2jFrjyn" /></a></p>
<p><em>Meet the Pi Wedge B+</em></p>
<p>The Pi Wedge B+ connects to the 40-pin GPIO connector, and breaks out the pins in a breadboard-friendly arrangement and spacing. It adds a pair of decoupling capacitors on the power supply lines, and it makes the initial bringup process easier – you can plug an <a href="http://bit.ly/2jFpBgs" target="_blank">FTDI Basic</a> module into the serial port.</p>
</div>
<div class="section tutorial-page">
<h2 id="assembly">Assembly</h2>
<p>The Pi Wedge B+ comes to you as loose parts, which you need to assemble before you can use it. The following steps will guide you through that process.</p>
<h3>Kit Contents</h3>
<p>Let’s start by reviewing the contents of the Pi Wedge B+ kit.</p>
<p><a href="http://bit.ly/2jFhmB3" target="_blank"><img alt="Loose Parts" src="http://bit.ly/2kas6dG" /></a></p>
<p><em>Pi Wedge parts</em></p>
<p>You should have the following parts.</p>
<ul>
<li>Pi Wedge B+ PCB</li>
<li>40-pin shrouded header</li>
<li>Two 17-pin straight headers</li>
<li>Two 10 uF 25V electrolytic capacitors</li>
<li>6-pin straight header</li>
<li>Ribbon cable</li>
</ul>
<h3>Instructions</h3>
<p>Assembly of the Pi Wedge B+ should be mostly obvious and straightforward. One thing to notice is that components are soldered to both sides of the board. The headers that interface with the breadboard are on the bottom of the board, soldered from the top. The other components go on the top, and are soldered from the bottom.</p>
<h4>Pin Alignment</h4>
<p>To keep the breadboard pins properly spaced and aligned while you solder, you can use your breadboard as an assembly jig. Simply insert the 17-pin headers in the breadboard…</p>
<p><a href="http://bit.ly/2jFnWHD" target="_blank"><img alt="Start with pins" src="http://bit.ly/2ka96Mi" /></a></p>
<p><em>Pins in breadboard</em></p>
<p>Then place the PCB over them, and solder it in place. Notice that the PCB is placed over the pins so that the signal labels are facing up.</p>
<p><a href="http://bit.ly/2jFqyVT" target="_blank"><img alt="PCB Overlaid" src="http://bit.ly/2karbK2" /></a></p>
<p><em>Add the PCB</em></p>
<p>Be careful not to overheat and melt the breadboard while soldering the pins. Zig-zagging between the rows will help distribute the heat. Also, somewhat counter-intuitively, using a hotter setting on your soldering iron will allow you to work more quickly, minimizing the risk of melting the breadboard.</p>
<h4>Shrouded Header</h4>
<p>The shrouded header has a notch that keeps the ribbon cable properly oriented. The notch should be lined up with the corresponding rectangle in the PCB silkscreen.</p>
<p><a href="http://bit.ly/2jFk5u2" target="_blank"><img alt="Shrouded header alignment" src="http://bit.ly/2kaodVV" /></a></p>
<p><em>Header Alignment</em></p>
<h4>Capacitors</h4>
<p>The electrolytic capacitors are polarized. The body has a band of “-” signs near the negative lead, which should be inserted into the PCB hole marked with the – sign. The negative lead is also shorter than the positive lead.</p>
<p><a href="http://bit.ly/2jFk3Cq" target="_blank"><img alt="Electrolytic Capacitor Polarity" src="http://bit.ly/2kagqaM" /></a></p>
<p><em>Capacitor Polarity</em></p>
<h4>Serial Adapter Connector</h4>
<p>The 6-pin header is soldered onto the PCB across from the capacitors.</p>
<p><a href="http://bit.ly/2jFhErH" target="_blank"><img alt="alt text" src="http://bit.ly/2kaiFuA" /></a></p>
<p><em>Serial Port Connector</em></p>
<p>If you want a lower profile assembly, you can substitute a <a href="http://bit.ly/2jFivbM" target="_blank">right-angle header</a> for the straight pins in the kit.</p>
<h3>Connection</h3>
<p>With the wedge soldered together, you’re ready to attach it to your Pi B+, and test it out.</p>
<p>The ribbon cable is polarized. On the Pi Wedge B+, the tooth on the cable will interface with the notch in the shrouded header.</p>
<p><a href="http://bit.ly/2kajpQB" target="_blank"><img alt="Ribbon cable alignment" src="http://bit.ly/2jFgEn5" /></a></p>
<p>The header on the Pi B+ itself doesn’t have anything to help guarantee the alignment. You’ll need to take care that it gets connected properly. Pin 1 on the Pi is marked with a dog-eared corner on the silkscreened rectangle. The ribbon cable connector is embossed with (a barely visible) small triangle that marks pin 1. The first pin is also coded on the wire, such as the red markings in the photo below (though it may also be another color, such as black or dark blue).</p>
<p><a href="http://bit.ly/2kao599" target="_blank"><img alt="J8 Alignment" src="http://bit.ly/2jFn9qb" /></a></p>
<p><em>Proper pin-1 orientation</em></p>
<p>The FTDI connector also needs to be aligned correctly. Be sure to match up the “grn” and “blk” markings on both boards.</p>
<p><a href="http://bit.ly/2karc0y" target="_blank"><img alt="FTDI Bridge Alignment" src="http://bit.ly/2jFxzGb" /></a></p>
<p><em>Proper FTDI-basic orientation</em></p>
<p>In the next section, we’ll explore how the signals from the Pi are mapped to the Wedge.</p>
</div>
<div class="section tutorial-page">
<h2 id="pin-mapping">Pin Mapping</h2>
<h3>Changes With the B+</h3>
<p>The Raspberry Pi foundation introduced a number of changes with the B+. The changes include</p>
<ul>
<li>40 pin GPIO connector in place of the B’s 26 pin connector. It adds
<ul>
<li>Nine more GPIO pins</li>
<li>ID_SC and ID_SD pins to identify external peripherals</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>Regulated audio power supply</li>
<li>4 USB ports</li>
<li>Micro SD slot, replacing the full-size SD slot on the B.</li>
</ul>
<h3>An Extra I2C bus?</h3>
<p>As part of the B+ improvemets, the Raspberry Pi Foundation has standardized the specification for add-on boards, in what they call the <a href="http://bit.ly/24g3Jgq" target="_blank">“Hardware Added On Top” (HAT)</a> specification. It standardizes the physical form factor for add-on boards, and includes a provision for the B+ to <a href="http://bit.ly/24wihsv" itemprop="url" target="_bank" title="automatically"><strong>automatically</strong></a> identify and initialize HATs at startup. It uses an I2C bus to read a description from an EEPROM on the HAT, similar to <a href="http://bit.ly/1r9FYod" target="_blank">cape identification</a> on the Beagle Bone Black.</p>
<p>This I2C bus is implemented with the ID_SC and ID_SD pins (pins 27 and 28 of thev 40-pin connector) – but before you get too excited about adding peripherals on that bus, observe the note in the schematic for that port.</p>
<p><a href="http://bit.ly/24g3Jgv" target="_blank"><img alt="B+ GPIO Pinout" src="http://bit.ly/1r9FXka" /></a></p>
<p>This is further clarified in the <a href="http://bit.ly/24g3Lot" target="_blank">HAT design guide</a></p>
<blockquote>
<p>On a Model B+, GPIO0 (ID_SD) and GPIO1 (ID_SC) will be switched to ALT0 (I2C-0) mode and probed for an EEPROM. These pins will revert to inputs once the probe sequence has completed.</p>
<p>The only allowed connections to the ID_ pins are an ID EEPROM plus 3.9K pull up resistors. Do not connect anything else to these pins!</p>
</blockquote>
<p>So if you want I2C on the B+, you’ll need to use I2C-1, on pins 3 and 5 of the 40-pin connector, marked SDA and SCL on the Pi Wedge B+.</p>
<p>The HAT specifications and other information are hosted on <a href="http://bit.ly/24g3LoI" target="_blank">GitHub</a>. If you’re designing a HAT, you’ll want to start by reading the <a href="http://bit.ly/24g3Lot" target="_blank">HAT Design Guide</a>, and possibly perusing the <a href="http://bit.ly/1r9FXkh" target="_blank">B+ addons</a> forum.</p>
<h3>Signal Location</h3>
<p>The Pi Wedge reorganizes the I/O pins on the Pi, putting similar functions on adjacent pins. The SPI, I2C and UART signals are all grouped near each other.</p>
<p><a href="http://bit.ly/2kadY40" target="_blank"><img alt="Pin Groupings" src="http://bit.ly/2kadY40" /></a></p>
<p><em>Functional Groupings</em></p>
<p>The pins are labeled, though the labels are short to fit the space available on the PCB. The UART, SPI and I2C pins are marked with their communication bus functions, but they can also available as GPIO pins when configured in that mode.</p>
<p>The following table denotes the assignment of signals on the Pi Wedge, including the peripheral and alternate GPIO assignments where appropriate.</p>
<table border="1" width="500" align="center">
<tbody>
<tr align="center">
<td><b>Function</b></td>
<td><b>GPIO#</b></td>
<td></td>
<td><b>Function</b></td>
<td><b>GPIO#</b></td>
</tr>
<tr align="center">
<td></td>
<td>GPIO 17</td>
<td></td>
<td></td>
<td>GPIO18</td>
</tr>
<tr align="center">
<td></td>
<td>GPIO 16</td>
<td></td>
<td></td>
<td>GPIO19</td>
</tr>
<tr align="center">
<td></td>
<td>GPIO 13</td>
<td></td>
<td></td>
<td>GPIO 20</td>
</tr>
<tr align="center">
<td></td>
<td>GPIO 12</td>
<td></td>
<td></td>
<td>GPIO 21</td>
</tr>
<tr align="center">
<td></td>
<td>GPIO 6</td>
<td></td>
<td></td>
<td>GPIO 22</td>
</tr>
<tr align="center">
<td></td>
<td>GPIO 5</td>
<td></td>
<td></td>
<td>GPIO 23</td>
</tr>
<tr align="center">
<td></td>
<td>GPIO 4</td>
<td></td>
<td></td>
<td>GPIO 24</td>
</tr>
<tr align="center">
<td>SPI CE 1</td>
<td>GPIO 7</td>
<td></td>
<td></td>
<td>GPIO 25</td>
</tr>
<tr align="center">
<td>SPI CE 0</td>
<td>GPIO 8</td>
<td></td>
<td></td>
<td>GPIO 26</td>
</tr>
<tr align="center">
<td>SPI MOSI</td>
<td>GPIO 10</td>
<td></td>
<td></td>
<td>GPIO 27</td>
</tr>
<tr align="center">
<td>SPI MISO</td>
<td>GPIO 9</td>
<td></td>
<td>SCL</td>
<td>GPIO 3</td>
</tr>
<tr align="center">
<td>SPI CLK</td>
<td>GPIO 11</td>
<td></td>
<td>SDA</td>
<td>GPIO 2</td>
</tr>
<tr align="center">
<td>UART RXI</td>
<td>GPIO 15</td>
<td></td>
<td>ID SC</td>
<td>GPIO 0</td>
</tr>
<tr align="center">
<td>UART TXI</td>
<td>GPIO 14</td>
<td></td>
<td>ID SD</td>
<td>GPIO 1</td>
</tr>
<tr align="center">
<td>5V</td>
<td></td>
<td></td>
<td></td>
<td>5V</td>
</tr>
<tr align="center">
<td>3.3V</td>
<td></td>
<td></td>
<td></td>
<td>3.3V</td>
</tr>
<tr align="center">
<td>GROUND</td>
<td></td>
<td></td>
<td></td>
<td>GROUND</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p><em>Pi Wedge B+ Pin-Function mapping</em></p>
</div>
<div class="section tutorial-page">
<h2 id="power-and-logic-levels">Power And Logic Levels</h2>
<p>Understanding the Pi’s power supply is critical to using it successfully.</p>
<p>The Raspberry Pi B+ is more efficient than it’s predecessors, as it replaces the former chain of linear power regulators with switching regulators.</p>
<p>Consulting the <a href="http://bit.ly/2jFiWCQ" target="_blank">Raspberry Pi B+ power schematic</a>, we see that 5V comes into the the board via connector J1 – it’s a micro USB connector, but only the power and ground pins are connected. The 5V coming from this connector passes through a fuse and a transistor circuit that protects against power polarity mishaps, then continues around the board without any further regulation. The 5V connections on the Pi Wedge come straight from this line.</p>
<p>On the B+, the 5V goes to a dual switching regulator that further reduces it to 3.3v, and 1.8V. The regulated 3.3V is present on the I/O connector.</p>
<p><a href="http://bit.ly/2kas7yg" target="_blank"><img alt="Power Regulation" src="http://bit.ly/2kas7yg" /></a></p>
<p>There are several power strategies that can be applied in a Pi deployment, depending on the overall needs and availability.</p>
<h4>Power Through the B+ GPIO Connector</h4>
<p>The most obvious strategy is to power external circuitry directly from the B+, using the 5V and 3.3V from the GPIO connector.</p>
<p>To power small circuits on your breadboard, you can run jumpers from the 5V or 3.3V and Ground pins on the wedge to the power rails on the breadboard.</p>
<p><a href="http://bit.ly/2jFo0XH" target="_blank"><img alt="alt text" src="http://bit.ly/2kaocRR" /></a></p>
<p><em>Jumpering power to the breadboard rails</em></p>
<p>While this is the most immediate way to access power, it only extends to small circuits. The B+ itself is limited to 2A total from the 5V line, most of which is needed by the B+ itself. The <a href="http://bit.ly/2jFhmRz" target="_blank">stated limit for the 3.3V pins is 50 mA</a>.</p>
<p>If you’re developing external circuitry, and the B+ resets when you’re testing it, you may be exceeding the current limits. We saw this exact situation arise as we added SPI controlled 7-segment LED displays – if we illuminated one too many segments, the system crashed. For circuits with higher power draw, we’ll need to explore some alternatives.</p>
<h4>Daisy Chaining</h4>
<p>The next power option is to connect each section of the circuit directly to the power supply. This means that the peripherals aren’t constrained by the current limits of the fuses and regulators on the Pi itself.</p>
<p><a href="http://bit.ly/2kafOlx" target="_blank"><img alt="daisy chained power" src="http://bit.ly/2kafOlx" /></a></p>
<p>The peripherals are powered directly by the supply directly</p>
<p>For peripherals that use 5V logic, they should also include <a href="http://bit.ly/2jFiYKY" target="_blank">3.3V/5V logic level translation</a>.</p>
<h4>Back Power Through J8</h4>
<p>As described above, a simple deployment can power peripherals via the 5V and 3.3V pins of J8. But it’s also possible to apply power to the Pi via those lines. The Pi Foundation call this <a href="http://bit.ly/2karDs6" target="_blank">“back powering”</a>, and they have a number of recommendations for it’s implementation.</p>
<p><a href="http://bit.ly/2jFltNr" target="_blank"><img alt="Backpowering" src="http://bit.ly/2jFltNr" /></a></p>
<p>The first recommendation is to duplicate the fuse and MOSFET + BJT power protection circuit as seen on the Pi itself. This circuit is a variant on the “ideal diode” circuit.</p>
<p><a href="http://bit.ly/2karEfE" target="_blank"><img alt="Ideal Diode" src="http://bit.ly/2karEfE" /></a></p>
<p>It serves several purposes:</p>
<ul>
<li>Under ordinary circumstances, with power coming in via the micro-USB plug, the MOSFET is biased fully on, so there is only minimal voltage drop across it, where a typical Schottky or Silicon diode would drop 0.3V or more.</li>
<li>Second, it prevents power from flowing if the power polarity at the micro-USB plug is incorrect.</li>
<li>Third, if the board is powered via J8, it prevents power from being drawn from J1, to prevent contention if two supplies are present at the same time.</li>
</ul>
<p>The other recommendation is that the HAT needs to be able to provide 5V, +/- 5%, with at least 1.3 A available for the B+.</p>
<h3>Logic Levels</h3>
<p>The Pi uses 3.3V logic levels, which are not 5V tolerant. Many peripheral devices are capable of running at 3.3V, but in the case that you need to interface with 5V devices, use a level shifter, such as the <a href="http://bit.ly/2jFblnS" target="_blank">TXB0104 breakout</a>.</p>
<h3>Communications</h3>
<p>Finally, the signals on the 6-pin FTDI header are also limited to 3.3v logic levels. Be sure to use it with a <a href="http://bit.ly/2jFpBgs" target="_blank">3.3V FTDI module</a>, and not a 5V one.</p>
</div>
<div class="section tutorial-page">
<h2 id="software">Software</h2>
<p>With the many programming languages available on the Pi, it’s hard to know where to start writing software that interfaces with the I/O connector.</p>
<p>For a quick and easy way to check out the connections on the IO connector, check out the <a href="http://wiringpi.com/" target="_blank">WiringPi</a> package. Wiring Pi is a hardware interface library that includes a utility to help you configure and check the status of the GPIO connector pins.</p>
<p>Follow <a href="http://bit.ly/1r9FWNg" target="_blank">these instructions</a> to install Wiring Pi.</p>
<p>Once you’ve got it installed, you can use the <code>gpio</code> command line utility to quickly check and test hardware connections.</p>
<p><code>gpio</code> takes a number of arguments. The <code>readall</code> option prints a handy table that deciphers the configuration and assignment of the pins. It also detects the revision of the Pi, and translates the pin numbers to match.</p>
<div class="copy-code" data-code-id="code-0"><button class="btn btn-default btn-sm">COPY CODE</button></div>
<pre>
<code>pi@raspberrypi:~$ gpio readall
+-----+-----+---------+------+---+--B Plus--+---+------+---------+-----+-----+
| BCM | wPi |   Name  | Mode | V | Physical | V | Mode | Name    | wPi | BCM |
+-----+-----+---------+------+---+----++----+---+------+---------+-----+-----+
|     |     |    3.3v |      |   |  1 || 2  |   |      | 5v      |     |     |
|   2 |   8 |   SDA.1 | ALT0 | 1 |  3 || 4  |   |      | 5V      |     |     |
|   3 |   9 |   SCL.1 | ALT0 | 1 |  5 || 6  |   |      | 0v      |     |     |
|   4 |   7 | GPIO. 7 |   IN | 0 |  7 || 8  | 1 | ALT0 | TxD     | 15  | 14  |
|     |     |      0v |      |   |  9 || 10 | 1 | ALT0 | RxD     | 16  | 15  |
|  17 |   0 | GPIO. 0 |   IN | 0 | 11 || 12 | 0 | IN   | GPIO. 1 | 1   | 18  |
|  27 |   2 | GPIO. 2 |   IN | 0 | 13 || 14 |   |      | 0v      |     |     |
|  22 |   3 | GPIO. 3 |   IN | 0 | 15 || 16 | 0 | IN   | GPIO. 4 | 4   | 23  |
|     |     |    3.3v |      |   | 17 || 18 | 0 | IN   | GPIO. 5 | 5   | 24  |
|  10 |  12 |    MOSI | ALT0 | 0 | 19 || 20 |   |      | 0v      |     |     |
|   9 |  13 |    MISO | ALT0 | 0 | 21 || 22 | 0 | IN   | GPIO. 6 | 6   | 25  |
|  11 |  14 |    SCLK | ALT0 | 0 | 23 || 24 | 1 | ALT0 | CE0     | 10  | 8   |
|     |     |      0v |      |   | 25 || 26 | 1 | ALT0 | CE1     | 11  | 7   |
|   0 |  30 |   SDA.0 |   IN | 0 | 27 || 28 | 0 | IN   | SCL.0   | 31  | 1   |
|   5 |  21 | GPIO.21 |   IN | 0 | 29 || 30 |   |      | 0v      |     |     |
|   6 |  22 | GPIO.22 |   IN | 0 | 31 || 32 | 0 | IN   | GPIO.26 | 26  | 12  |
|  13 |  23 | GPIO.23 |   IN | 0 | 33 || 34 |   |      | 0v      |     |     |
|  19 |  24 | GPIO.24 |   IN | 0 | 35 || 36 | 1 | OUT  | GPIO.27 | 27  | 16  |
|  26 |  25 | GPIO.25 |   IN | 0 | 37 || 38 | 0 | IN   | GPIO.28 | 28  | 20  |
|     |     |      0v |      |   | 39 || 40 | 0 | IN   | GPIO.29 | 29  | 21  |
+-----+-----+---------+------+---+----++----+---+------+---------+-----+-----+
| BCM | wPi |   Name  | Mode | V | Physical | V | Mode | Name    | wPi | BCM |
+-----+-----+---------+------+---+--B Plus--+---+------+---------+-----+-----+
</code>
</pre>
<p>Somewhat confusingly, you’ll notice that there are three different ways to refer to the GPIO pins. Starting from the center of this table, we see:</p>
<ul>
<li>The “Physical” columns that correspond to the pin numbers of the J8 connector on the B+.</li>
<li>Moving outward from there, the the “mode” and “name” columns indicate the presently configured pin function and direction.</li>
<li>The next column out, “wPi,” is a set of contiguous numbers (0 to 31) that WiringPi uses by default (though it can be configured to use other numbering schemes, too – see the GPIO man pages).</li>
<li>Finally the “BCM” column refers to channels of the GPIO peripheral on the BCM2835 processor.</li>
</ul>
<p>The Pi Wedge is labeled with the numbers seen in the Name column.</p>
<p>If you run <code>gpio</code> without any parameters, it displays the available options. You can use it to configure, read and write pins right from the command line. Similarly, <code>man gpio</code> displays more detailed information on using the utility, including a number of sample commands.</p>
<h3>Programming</h3>
<p>If you’re coming from Arduino, and you’ve got a handle on how it manages I/O, you’ll find that the WiringPi libraries present a familiar programming interface. We have a few WiringPi based examples for GPIO, SPI and I2C in the <a href="http://bit.ly/1r9FY7L" target="_blank">Pi Wedge GitHub Repository</a> that should help you get started.</p>
<p>If Python is more your speed, then take a look at the <a href="http://bit.ly/1r9FYou" target="_blank">RPi.GPIO module</a>.</p>
<p>For more detailed information about using both WiringPi and RPi.GPIO, take a look at our <a href="http://bit.ly/2jFgCvt" target="_blank">Raspberry gPIo</a> tutorial.</p>
</div>
<div class="section tutorial-page">
<h2 id="resources--going-further">Resources and Going Further</h2>
<h3>Going Further</h3>
<p>To take a closer look at programming for the I/O on a Pi, in both Python and C, take a look at our <a href="http://bit.ly/2jFgCvt" target="_blank">Raspberry gPIo</a> tutorial.</p>
<p>The design files for the PCB, and some WiringPi software examples can be found in the <a href="http://bit.ly/2kaiFL6" target="_blank">Pi Wedge B Plus</a> GitHib repository.</p>
<h3>Resources</h3>
<p>For more information about the Raspberry Pi B+ and the software described here, please visit their sites.</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://bit.ly/1r9FXkm" target="_blank">The Raspberry Pi Foundation</a></li>
<li>The Pi Foundation’s <a href="http://bit.ly/1r9FXkh" target="_blank">B+ Addons</a> forum.</li>
<li>The Pi Foundation’s GitHub repository for the <a href="http://bit.ly/24g3LoI" target="_blank">Raspberry Pi B+ HATs</a>.</li>
<li>The eLinux.org <a href="http://bit.ly/24g3Mcc" target="_blank">Raspberry Pi peripherals</a> guide</li>
<li><a href="http://wiringpi.com/" target="_blank">WiringPi</a></li>
<li><a href="http://bit.ly/1r9FYou" target="_blank">RPi.GPIO module</a></li>
<li>Some notes about increasing the available current from the <a href="http://bit.ly/24g3LF2" target="_blank">B+ USB ports</a>.</li>
</ul>
<p>If you have any problems or questions, our <a href="http://bit.ly/1r9FXkq" target="_blank">technical support department</a> can help. Please don’t hesitate to contact us. We also love to hear about your projects!</p>
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Pi Wedge B+ Hookup Guide

Introduction The Raspberry Pi B+ is the latest revision of the Raspberry Pi Linux Computer Board. Differentiating it from the older Mode...

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SparkFun’s Data.SparkFun.com service allows you to easily push your data to the “cloud.” Whether you’re posting weather readings , office e...

<p>SparkFun’s <a href="http://bit.ly/2kaoesX" target="_blank">Data.SparkFun.com</a> service allows you to easily push your data to the “cloud.” Whether you’re posting <a href="http://bit.ly/2jFtcLx" target="_blank">weather readings</a>, <a href="http://bit.ly/2kaoMPP" target="_blank">office environment conditions</a>, or anything else, it can come in handy to have a central, online location to store those sensor readings. By sending a simple HTTP request to the Data.SparkFun.com server, your project data is stored and displayed in a simple database where it can be retrieved or reviewed at your leisure.</p>
<p><a href="http://bit.ly/2jFteTF" target="_blank"><img alt="SCreenshot of the stream" src="http://ift.tt/1mwLCLv" /></a></p>
<p>Any electronics project that can be <strong>Internet-connected</strong> should be able to post data to the SparkFun data service. Luckily, these days – with Internet-of-Things applications taking off – there is no shortage of hardware gateways to the web. Basic Arduino’s can rely on shields for WiFi or Ethernet access, while many advanced development platforms already have WiFi or Ethernet built-in.</p>
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<p><a href="http://ift.tt/1n5qjfY" target="_blank"><img alt="alt text" src="http://ift.tt/1mwLCLz" /></a></p>
<p><em>An assortment of shields and development boards that can be used as your hardware’s Internet gateway for Data.SparkFun.com.</em></p>
<p>This tutorial is a grab bag of example sketches and scripts that show how you can publish anything to our data service using most of today’s popular hardware platforms. Each example has a section dedicated to the example hookup, code and setup:</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://ift.tt/1n5qjg0" target="_blank">Arduino & Ethernet Shield</a> – The <a href="http://ift.tt/1pk48G7" target="_blank">Ethernet Shield</a> has been one of the Arduino’s longest lasting Network portals around. If you don’t mind a few wires hanging out of your project, this shield is one of the most reliable options around. This example also works with the <a href="http://ift.tt/1n5qibW" target="_blank">PoEthernet Shield</a>, or really any shield that uses the Ethernet library.</li>
<li><a href="http://ift.tt/1mwLAmN" target="_blank">Arduino & CC3000 Shield</a> – The <a href="http://ift.tt/PstLIp" target="_blank">CC3000 WiFi Shield</a> is one of our newest offerings to the WiFi Shield market. Because it’s relatively low-cost and reliable, it’s a great choice if you’re short on RJ-45 ports or Cat5 cable.</li>
<li><a href="http://ift.tt/1mwLCLD" target="_blank">Arduino & WiFly Shield</a> – The <a href="http://ift.tt/1boXQxe" target="_blank">WiFly Shield</a> is another long-surviving shield that makes connecting your ‘duino to WiFi easy. Not as cheap as the CC3000, but a good option if you’ve already got a Shield lying around.</li>
<li><a href="http://ift.tt/1mwLCLF" target="_blank">Arduino Yun</a> – Internet-of-things applications like this are what the <a href="http://ift.tt/1bp9ixe" target="_blank">Arduino Yun</a> was made for. With built in Ethernet, WiFi, and even Linux, not much stands in the way of your data on its way to the web.</li>
<li><a href="http://ift.tt/1mwLD1T" target="_blank">Raspberry Pi (using Python)</a> – With a full Linux kernel at its fingertips, the <a href="http://bit.ly/2kaxXQ3" target="_blank">Raspberry Pi</a> should have no problems posting an HTTP request. In this example we’ll use Python, which allows us to toggle I/O at the same time.</li>
<li><a href="http://ift.tt/1mwLAmP" target="_blank">Electric Imp</a> – A prerequisite to using the <a href="http://ift.tt/SqIAp2" target="_blank">Electric Imp</a> is that it must be Internet-connected to download code. With its ability to work with web “agents”, the it’s easy to get the imp posting HTTP requests.</li>
</ul>
<p>Each section of the tutorial will demonstrate an example sketch for a particular piece, or combination of hardware. But before clicking over to the platform you plan on using, check out the <a href="http://ift.tt/1mwLD1W" target="_blank">What is Phant?</a> first. That’s where we’ll demonstrate how to create a data stream and how to use it.</p>
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Pushing Data to Data.SparkFun.com

SparkFun’s Data.SparkFun.com service allows you to easily push your data to the “cloud.” Whether you’re posting weather readings , office e...

Pi Wedge B+ Hookup Guide

Wall's Corners

Link Author

Title: Pi Wedge B+ Hookup Guide
Author: Wall's Corners
Rating 5 of 5 Des:

Introduction The Raspberry Pi B+ is the latest revision of the Raspberry Pi Linux Computer Board. Differentiating it from the older Mode...

<div class="section tutorial-page">
<h2 id="introduction">Introduction</h2>
<p>The <a href="http://bit.ly/24g3KRD" target="_blank">Raspberry Pi B+</a> is the latest revision of the <a href="http://bit.ly/27ItTrs" itemprop="url" target="_bank" title="Raspberry Pi"><strong>Raspberry Pi</strong></a> Linux Computer Board. Differentiating it from the older Model B, the B+ features an extended <a href="http://bit.ly/26nCnnf" itemprop="url" target="_bank" title="GPIO"><strong>GPIO</strong></a> connector, with 40 pins, up from the Model B’s 26.</p>
<p><a href="http://bit.ly/2karbtw" target="_blank"><img alt="Raspberry Pi B+" src="http://bit.ly/2karbtw" /></a></p>
<p><em>The <a href="http://bit.ly/1T5ac2c" itemprop="url" target="_bank" title="Raspberry"><strong>Raspberry</strong></a> Pi B+</em></p>
<p>To match the rearranged connector, we’re introducing the <a href="http://bit.ly/2kam2SB" target="_blank">Pi Wedge B+</a>, a small board that connects to the GPIO connector, and breaks the GPIO pins out into rows that work with solderless breadboards.</p>
<p><a href="http://bit.ly/2jFrjyn" target="_blank"><img alt="alt text" src="http://bit.ly/2jFrjyn" /></a></p>
<p><em>Pi Wedge B+ and Breadboard</em></p>
<p>If you’re using a <a href="http://bit.ly/2kaxXQ3" target="_blank">regular Model B</a> (not the plus version), we also have a <a href="http://bit.ly/2jFlr8h" target="_blank">Pi Wedge</a> for it.</p>
<p>This guide will show you how to assemble the Pi Wedge B+ and start using it with your <a href="http://bit.ly/26nCm2K" itemprop="url" target="_bank" title="Raspberry"><strong>Raspberry</strong></a> Pi.</p>
<h3>Required Materials</h3>
<ul>
<li>The <a href="http://bit.ly/2jFlr8h" target="_blank">Pi Wedge B+</a> kit</li>
<li>A <a href="http://bit.ly/24g3KRD" target="_blank">Raspberry Pi B+</a> single board computer.</li>
<li>A <a href="http://bit.ly/24g3KRI" target="_blank">Solderless</a> <a href="http://bit.ly/1r9FX3C" target="_blank">Breadboard</a></li>
<li>An <a href="http://bit.ly/2jFpBgs" target="_blank">FTDI Basic</a></li>
<li>Your favorite <a href="http://bit.ly/1qUAs94" itemprop="url" target="_bank" title="I2C"><strong>I2C</strong></a>, SPI or GPIO-based peripherals</li>
<li>A <a href="http://bit.ly/2jFn7i3" target="_blank">soldering iron</a> and <a href="http://bit.ly/2kalaNv" target="_blank">leaded</a> or <a href="http://bit.ly/2jFrk5p" target="_blank">lead-free</a> solder</li>
</ul>
<h3>Suggested Reading</h3>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://bit.ly/2kamGiX" target="_blank">How To Use a Breadboard</a></li>
<li><a href="http://bit.ly/2jFfng6" target="_blank">Setting Up a Boot Card</a></li>
<li><a href="http://bit.ly/1ToVAex" target="_blank">Serial Communication</a></li>
<li><a href="http://bit.ly/24g3IJv" target="_blank">Serial Peripheral Interface</a></li>
<li><a href="http://bit.ly/1r9FXRc" target="_blank">I2C</a></li>
</ul>
<h3>Suggested Viewing</h3>
<ul>
<li>Getting Started With The Raspberry Pi
<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b6h95jNWg1g" target="_blank">Part 1</a></li>
<li><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6HeRyrr4i9k" target="_blank">Part 2</a></li>
<li><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1tEMRCtXALM" target="_blank">Part 3</a></li>
</ul>
</li>
</ul>
</div>
<div class="section tutorial-page">
<h2 id="background">Background</h2>
<p>In the process of developing projects like the <a href="http://bit.ly/2jFo2yN" target="_blank">Twitter Monitor</a> and <a href="https://twitter.com/Gr8AmTweetRace" target="_blank">Great American Tweet Race</a> around the Raspberry Pi, we found that we were experiencing some growing pains when trying to expand the Pi into a prototype that involved external hardware.</p>
<p><a href="http://bit.ly/2kauBNh" target="_blank"><img alt="Bob Pease would be proud" src="http://bit.ly/2jFrR7e" /></a></p>
<p><em>There’s a Pi somewhere in this ratsnest</em></p>
<p>The Raspberry Pi Model B+ has a 40-pin connector that provides access to several communication interfaces, plus GPIO and power. But the connector doesn’t have detailed labeling, and the native pin arrangement is somewhat scattershot. Pins used for similar functions aren’t always grouped together, and power and ground pins are interspersed with no obvious pattern.</p>
<p>The pins also don’t translate to a solderless breadboard very easily. Our first projects used a bunch of <a href="http://bit.ly/2kaq3Gy" target="_blank">F-M jumper wires</a> that we just plugged into the header. They involved a lot of “ratsnest jiggling” when things stopped working.</p>
<h4>Bootstrapping</h4>
<p>In addition to the physical issues of using the I/O connector, getting started with a brand new Raspberry Pi B+ always seems to involve a chicken-and-egg situation. We just want to SSH into it, so we can use the command line. But in order to SSH to it, we need to know it’s IP address…and of course, the IP address is most easily learned by running <code>ifconfig</code> on the command line.</p>
<h3>The Solution</h3>
<p><a href="http://bit.ly/2jFrjyn" target="_blank"><img alt="Pi Wedge B+" src="http://bit.ly/2jFrjyn" /></a></p>
<p><em>Meet the Pi Wedge B+</em></p>
<p>The Pi Wedge B+ connects to the 40-pin GPIO connector, and breaks out the pins in a breadboard-friendly arrangement and spacing. It adds a pair of decoupling capacitors on the power supply lines, and it makes the initial bringup process easier – you can plug an <a href="http://bit.ly/2jFpBgs" target="_blank">FTDI Basic</a> module into the serial port.</p>
</div>
<div class="section tutorial-page">
<h2 id="assembly">Assembly</h2>
<p>The Pi Wedge B+ comes to you as loose parts, which you need to assemble before you can use it. The following steps will guide you through that process.</p>
<h3>Kit Contents</h3>
<p>Let’s start by reviewing the contents of the Pi Wedge B+ kit.</p>
<p><a href="http://bit.ly/2jFhmB3" target="_blank"><img alt="Loose Parts" src="http://bit.ly/2kas6dG" /></a></p>
<p><em>Pi Wedge parts</em></p>
<p>You should have the following parts.</p>
<ul>
<li>Pi Wedge B+ PCB</li>
<li>40-pin shrouded header</li>
<li>Two 17-pin straight headers</li>
<li>Two 10 uF 25V electrolytic capacitors</li>
<li>6-pin straight header</li>
<li>Ribbon cable</li>
</ul>
<h3>Instructions</h3>
<p>Assembly of the Pi Wedge B+ should be mostly obvious and straightforward. One thing to notice is that components are soldered to both sides of the board. The headers that interface with the breadboard are on the bottom of the board, soldered from the top. The other components go on the top, and are soldered from the bottom.</p>
<h4>Pin Alignment</h4>
<p>To keep the breadboard pins properly spaced and aligned while you solder, you can use your breadboard as an assembly jig. Simply insert the 17-pin headers in the breadboard…</p>
<p><a href="http://bit.ly/2jFnWHD" target="_blank"><img alt="Start with pins" src="http://bit.ly/2ka96Mi" /></a></p>
<p><em>Pins in breadboard</em></p>
<p>Then place the PCB over them, and solder it in place. Notice that the PCB is placed over the pins so that the signal labels are facing up.</p>
<p><a href="http://bit.ly/2jFqyVT" target="_blank"><img alt="PCB Overlaid" src="http://bit.ly/2karbK2" /></a></p>
<p><em>Add the PCB</em></p>
<p>Be careful not to overheat and melt the breadboard while soldering the pins. Zig-zagging between the rows will help distribute the heat. Also, somewhat counter-intuitively, using a hotter setting on your soldering iron will allow you to work more quickly, minimizing the risk of melting the breadboard.</p>
<h4>Shrouded Header</h4>
<p>The shrouded header has a notch that keeps the ribbon cable properly oriented. The notch should be lined up with the corresponding rectangle in the PCB silkscreen.</p>
<p><a href="http://bit.ly/2jFk5u2" target="_blank"><img alt="Shrouded header alignment" src="http://bit.ly/2kaodVV" /></a></p>
<p><em>Header Alignment</em></p>
<h4>Capacitors</h4>
<p>The electrolytic capacitors are polarized. The body has a band of “-” signs near the negative lead, which should be inserted into the PCB hole marked with the – sign. The negative lead is also shorter than the positive lead.</p>
<p><a href="http://bit.ly/2jFk3Cq" target="_blank"><img alt="Electrolytic Capacitor Polarity" src="http://bit.ly/2kagqaM" /></a></p>
<p><em>Capacitor Polarity</em></p>
<h4>Serial Adapter Connector</h4>
<p>The 6-pin header is soldered onto the PCB across from the capacitors.</p>
<p><a href="http://bit.ly/2jFhErH" target="_blank"><img alt="alt text" src="http://bit.ly/2kaiFuA" /></a></p>
<p><em>Serial Port Connector</em></p>
<p>If you want a lower profile assembly, you can substitute a <a href="http://bit.ly/2jFivbM" target="_blank">right-angle header</a> for the straight pins in the kit.</p>
<h3>Connection</h3>
<p>With the wedge soldered together, you’re ready to attach it to your Pi B+, and test it out.</p>
<p>The ribbon cable is polarized. On the Pi Wedge B+, the tooth on the cable will interface with the notch in the shrouded header.</p>
<p><a href="http://bit.ly/2kajpQB" target="_blank"><img alt="Ribbon cable alignment" src="http://bit.ly/2jFgEn5" /></a></p>
<p>The header on the Pi B+ itself doesn’t have anything to help guarantee the alignment. You’ll need to take care that it gets connected properly. Pin 1 on the Pi is marked with a dog-eared corner on the silkscreened rectangle. The ribbon cable connector is embossed with (a barely visible) small triangle that marks pin 1. The first pin is also coded on the wire, such as the red markings in the photo below (though it may also be another color, such as black or dark blue).</p>
<p><a href="http://bit.ly/2kao599" target="_blank"><img alt="J8 Alignment" src="http://bit.ly/2jFn9qb" /></a></p>
<p><em>Proper pin-1 orientation</em></p>
<p>The FTDI connector also needs to be aligned correctly. Be sure to match up the “grn” and “blk” markings on both boards.</p>
<p><a href="http://bit.ly/2karc0y" target="_blank"><img alt="FTDI Bridge Alignment" src="http://bit.ly/2jFxzGb" /></a></p>
<p><em>Proper FTDI-basic orientation</em></p>
<p>In the next section, we’ll explore how the signals from the Pi are mapped to the Wedge.</p>
</div>
<div class="section tutorial-page">
<h2 id="pin-mapping">Pin Mapping</h2>
<h3>Changes With the B+</h3>
<p>The Raspberry Pi foundation introduced a number of changes with the B+. The changes include</p>
<ul>
<li>40 pin GPIO connector in place of the B’s 26 pin connector. It adds
<ul>
<li>Nine more GPIO pins</li>
<li>ID_SC and ID_SD pins to identify external peripherals</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>Regulated audio power supply</li>
<li>4 USB ports</li>
<li>Micro SD slot, replacing the full-size SD slot on the B.</li>
</ul>
<h3>An Extra I2C bus?</h3>
<p>As part of the B+ improvemets, the Raspberry Pi Foundation has standardized the specification for add-on boards, in what they call the <a href="http://bit.ly/24g3Jgq" target="_blank">“Hardware Added On Top” (HAT)</a> specification. It standardizes the physical form factor for add-on boards, and includes a provision for the B+ to <a href="http://bit.ly/24wihsv" itemprop="url" target="_bank" title="automatically"><strong>automatically</strong></a> identify and initialize HATs at startup. It uses an I2C bus to read a description from an EEPROM on the HAT, similar to <a href="http://bit.ly/1r9FYod" target="_blank">cape identification</a> on the Beagle Bone Black.</p>
<p>This I2C bus is implemented with the ID_SC and ID_SD pins (pins 27 and 28 of thev 40-pin connector) – but before you get too excited about adding peripherals on that bus, observe the note in the schematic for that port.</p>
<p><a href="http://bit.ly/24g3Jgv" target="_blank"><img alt="B+ GPIO Pinout" src="http://bit.ly/1r9FXka" /></a></p>
<p>This is further clarified in the <a href="http://bit.ly/24g3Lot" target="_blank">HAT design guide</a></p>
<blockquote>
<p>On a Model B+, GPIO0 (ID_SD) and GPIO1 (ID_SC) will be switched to ALT0 (I2C-0) mode and probed for an EEPROM. These pins will revert to inputs once the probe sequence has completed.</p>
<p>The only allowed connections to the ID_ pins are an ID EEPROM plus 3.9K pull up resistors. Do not connect anything else to these pins!</p>
</blockquote>
<p>So if you want I2C on the B+, you’ll need to use I2C-1, on pins 3 and 5 of the 40-pin connector, marked SDA and SCL on the Pi Wedge B+.</p>
<p>The HAT specifications and other information are hosted on <a href="http://bit.ly/24g3LoI" target="_blank">GitHub</a>. If you’re designing a HAT, you’ll want to start by reading the <a href="http://bit.ly/24g3Lot" target="_blank">HAT Design Guide</a>, and possibly perusing the <a href="http://bit.ly/1r9FXkh" target="_blank">B+ addons</a> forum.</p>
<h3>Signal Location</h3>
<p>The Pi Wedge reorganizes the I/O pins on the Pi, putting similar functions on adjacent pins. The SPI, I2C and UART signals are all grouped near each other.</p>
<p><a href="http://bit.ly/2kadY40" target="_blank"><img alt="Pin Groupings" src="http://bit.ly/2kadY40" /></a></p>
<p><em>Functional Groupings</em></p>
<p>The pins are labeled, though the labels are short to fit the space available on the PCB. The UART, SPI and I2C pins are marked with their communication bus functions, but they can also available as GPIO pins when configured in that mode.</p>
<p>The following table denotes the assignment of signals on the Pi Wedge, including the peripheral and alternate GPIO assignments where appropriate.</p>
<table border="1" width="500" align="center">
<tbody>
<tr align="center">
<td><b>Function</b></td>
<td><b>GPIO#</b></td>
<td></td>
<td><b>Function</b></td>
<td><b>GPIO#</b></td>
</tr>
<tr align="center">
<td></td>
<td>GPIO 17</td>
<td></td>
<td></td>
<td>GPIO18</td>
</tr>
<tr align="center">
<td></td>
<td>GPIO 16</td>
<td></td>
<td></td>
<td>GPIO19</td>
</tr>
<tr align="center">
<td></td>
<td>GPIO 13</td>
<td></td>
<td></td>
<td>GPIO 20</td>
</tr>
<tr align="center">
<td></td>
<td>GPIO 12</td>
<td></td>
<td></td>
<td>GPIO 21</td>
</tr>
<tr align="center">
<td></td>
<td>GPIO 6</td>
<td></td>
<td></td>
<td>GPIO 22</td>
</tr>
<tr align="center">
<td></td>
<td>GPIO 5</td>
<td></td>
<td></td>
<td>GPIO 23</td>
</tr>
<tr align="center">
<td></td>
<td>GPIO 4</td>
<td></td>
<td></td>
<td>GPIO 24</td>
</tr>
<tr align="center">
<td>SPI CE 1</td>
<td>GPIO 7</td>
<td></td>
<td></td>
<td>GPIO 25</td>
</tr>
<tr align="center">
<td>SPI CE 0</td>
<td>GPIO 8</td>
<td></td>
<td></td>
<td>GPIO 26</td>
</tr>
<tr align="center">
<td>SPI MOSI</td>
<td>GPIO 10</td>
<td></td>
<td></td>
<td>GPIO 27</td>
</tr>
<tr align="center">
<td>SPI MISO</td>
<td>GPIO 9</td>
<td></td>
<td>SCL</td>
<td>GPIO 3</td>
</tr>
<tr align="center">
<td>SPI CLK</td>
<td>GPIO 11</td>
<td></td>
<td>SDA</td>
<td>GPIO 2</td>
</tr>
<tr align="center">
<td>UART RXI</td>
<td>GPIO 15</td>
<td></td>
<td>ID SC</td>
<td>GPIO 0</td>
</tr>
<tr align="center">
<td>UART TXI</td>
<td>GPIO 14</td>
<td></td>
<td>ID SD</td>
<td>GPIO 1</td>
</tr>
<tr align="center">
<td>5V</td>
<td></td>
<td></td>
<td></td>
<td>5V</td>
</tr>
<tr align="center">
<td>3.3V</td>
<td></td>
<td></td>
<td></td>
<td>3.3V</td>
</tr>
<tr align="center">
<td>GROUND</td>
<td></td>
<td></td>
<td></td>
<td>GROUND</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p><em>Pi Wedge B+ Pin-Function mapping</em></p>
</div>
<div class="section tutorial-page">
<h2 id="power-and-logic-levels">Power And Logic Levels</h2>
<p>Understanding the Pi’s power supply is critical to using it successfully.</p>
<p>The Raspberry Pi B+ is more efficient than it’s predecessors, as it replaces the former chain of linear power regulators with switching regulators.</p>
<p>Consulting the <a href="http://bit.ly/2jFiWCQ" target="_blank">Raspberry Pi B+ power schematic</a>, we see that 5V comes into the the board via connector J1 – it’s a micro USB connector, but only the power and ground pins are connected. The 5V coming from this connector passes through a fuse and a transistor circuit that protects against power polarity mishaps, then continues around the board without any further regulation. The 5V connections on the Pi Wedge come straight from this line.</p>
<p>On the B+, the 5V goes to a dual switching regulator that further reduces it to 3.3v, and 1.8V. The regulated 3.3V is present on the I/O connector.</p>
<p><a href="http://bit.ly/2kas7yg" target="_blank"><img alt="Power Regulation" src="http://bit.ly/2kas7yg" /></a></p>
<p>There are several power strategies that can be applied in a Pi deployment, depending on the overall needs and availability.</p>
<h4>Power Through the B+ GPIO Connector</h4>
<p>The most obvious strategy is to power external circuitry directly from the B+, using the 5V and 3.3V from the GPIO connector.</p>
<p>To power small circuits on your breadboard, you can run jumpers from the 5V or 3.3V and Ground pins on the wedge to the power rails on the breadboard.</p>
<p><a href="http://bit.ly/2jFo0XH" target="_blank"><img alt="alt text" src="http://bit.ly/2kaocRR" /></a></p>
<p><em>Jumpering power to the breadboard rails</em></p>
<p>While this is the most immediate way to access power, it only extends to small circuits. The B+ itself is limited to 2A total from the 5V line, most of which is needed by the B+ itself. The <a href="http://bit.ly/2jFhmRz" target="_blank">stated limit for the 3.3V pins is 50 mA</a>.</p>
<p>If you’re developing external circuitry, and the B+ resets when you’re testing it, you may be exceeding the current limits. We saw this exact situation arise as we added SPI controlled 7-segment LED displays – if we illuminated one too many segments, the system crashed. For circuits with higher power draw, we’ll need to explore some alternatives.</p>
<h4>Daisy Chaining</h4>
<p>The next power option is to connect each section of the circuit directly to the power supply. This means that the peripherals aren’t constrained by the current limits of the fuses and regulators on the Pi itself.</p>
<p><a href="http://bit.ly/2kafOlx" target="_blank"><img alt="daisy chained power" src="http://bit.ly/2kafOlx" /></a></p>
<p>The peripherals are powered directly by the supply directly</p>
<p>For peripherals that use 5V logic, they should also include <a href="http://bit.ly/2jFiYKY" target="_blank">3.3V/5V logic level translation</a>.</p>
<h4>Back Power Through J8</h4>
<p>As described above, a simple deployment can power peripherals via the 5V and 3.3V pins of J8. But it’s also possible to apply power to the Pi via those lines. The Pi Foundation call this <a href="http://bit.ly/2karDs6" target="_blank">“back powering”</a>, and they have a number of recommendations for it’s implementation.</p>
<p><a href="http://bit.ly/2jFltNr" target="_blank"><img alt="Backpowering" src="http://bit.ly/2jFltNr" /></a></p>
<p>The first recommendation is to duplicate the fuse and MOSFET + BJT power protection circuit as seen on the Pi itself. This circuit is a variant on the “ideal diode” circuit.</p>
<p><a href="http://bit.ly/2karEfE" target="_blank"><img alt="Ideal Diode" src="http://bit.ly/2karEfE" /></a></p>
<p>It serves several purposes:</p>
<ul>
<li>Under ordinary circumstances, with power coming in via the micro-USB plug, the MOSFET is biased fully on, so there is only minimal voltage drop across it, where a typical Schottky or Silicon diode would drop 0.3V or more.</li>
<li>Second, it prevents power from flowing if the power polarity at the micro-USB plug is incorrect.</li>
<li>Third, if the board is powered via J8, it prevents power from being drawn from J1, to prevent contention if two supplies are present at the same time.</li>
</ul>
<p>The other recommendation is that the HAT needs to be able to provide 5V, +/- 5%, with at least 1.3 A available for the B+.</p>
<h3>Logic Levels</h3>
<p>The Pi uses 3.3V logic levels, which are not 5V tolerant. Many peripheral devices are capable of running at 3.3V, but in the case that you need to interface with 5V devices, use a level shifter, such as the <a href="http://bit.ly/2jFblnS" target="_blank">TXB0104 breakout</a>.</p>
<h3>Communications</h3>
<p>Finally, the signals on the 6-pin FTDI header are also limited to 3.3v logic levels. Be sure to use it with a <a href="http://bit.ly/2jFpBgs" target="_blank">3.3V FTDI module</a>, and not a 5V one.</p>
</div>
<div class="section tutorial-page">
<h2 id="software">Software</h2>
<p>With the many programming languages available on the Pi, it’s hard to know where to start writing software that interfaces with the I/O connector.</p>
<p>For a quick and easy way to check out the connections on the IO connector, check out the <a href="http://wiringpi.com/" target="_blank">WiringPi</a> package. Wiring Pi is a hardware interface library that includes a utility to help you configure and check the status of the GPIO connector pins.</p>
<p>Follow <a href="http://bit.ly/1r9FWNg" target="_blank">these instructions</a> to install Wiring Pi.</p>
<p>Once you’ve got it installed, you can use the <code>gpio</code> command line utility to quickly check and test hardware connections.</p>
<p><code>gpio</code> takes a number of arguments. The <code>readall</code> option prints a handy table that deciphers the configuration and assignment of the pins. It also detects the revision of the Pi, and translates the pin numbers to match.</p>
<div class="copy-code" data-code-id="code-0"><button class="btn btn-default btn-sm">COPY CODE</button></div>
<pre>
<code>pi@raspberrypi:~$ gpio readall
+-----+-----+---------+------+---+--B Plus--+---+------+---------+-----+-----+
| BCM | wPi |   Name  | Mode | V | Physical | V | Mode | Name    | wPi | BCM |
+-----+-----+---------+------+---+----++----+---+------+---------+-----+-----+
|     |     |    3.3v |      |   |  1 || 2  |   |      | 5v      |     |     |
|   2 |   8 |   SDA.1 | ALT0 | 1 |  3 || 4  |   |      | 5V      |     |     |
|   3 |   9 |   SCL.1 | ALT0 | 1 |  5 || 6  |   |      | 0v      |     |     |
|   4 |   7 | GPIO. 7 |   IN | 0 |  7 || 8  | 1 | ALT0 | TxD     | 15  | 14  |
|     |     |      0v |      |   |  9 || 10 | 1 | ALT0 | RxD     | 16  | 15  |
|  17 |   0 | GPIO. 0 |   IN | 0 | 11 || 12 | 0 | IN   | GPIO. 1 | 1   | 18  |
|  27 |   2 | GPIO. 2 |   IN | 0 | 13 || 14 |   |      | 0v      |     |     |
|  22 |   3 | GPIO. 3 |   IN | 0 | 15 || 16 | 0 | IN   | GPIO. 4 | 4   | 23  |
|     |     |    3.3v |      |   | 17 || 18 | 0 | IN   | GPIO. 5 | 5   | 24  |
|  10 |  12 |    MOSI | ALT0 | 0 | 19 || 20 |   |      | 0v      |     |     |
|   9 |  13 |    MISO | ALT0 | 0 | 21 || 22 | 0 | IN   | GPIO. 6 | 6   | 25  |
|  11 |  14 |    SCLK | ALT0 | 0 | 23 || 24 | 1 | ALT0 | CE0     | 10  | 8   |
|     |     |      0v |      |   | 25 || 26 | 1 | ALT0 | CE1     | 11  | 7   |
|   0 |  30 |   SDA.0 |   IN | 0 | 27 || 28 | 0 | IN   | SCL.0   | 31  | 1   |
|   5 |  21 | GPIO.21 |   IN | 0 | 29 || 30 |   |      | 0v      |     |     |
|   6 |  22 | GPIO.22 |   IN | 0 | 31 || 32 | 0 | IN   | GPIO.26 | 26  | 12  |
|  13 |  23 | GPIO.23 |   IN | 0 | 33 || 34 |   |      | 0v      |     |     |
|  19 |  24 | GPIO.24 |   IN | 0 | 35 || 36 | 1 | OUT  | GPIO.27 | 27  | 16  |
|  26 |  25 | GPIO.25 |   IN | 0 | 37 || 38 | 0 | IN   | GPIO.28 | 28  | 20  |
|     |     |      0v |      |   | 39 || 40 | 0 | IN   | GPIO.29 | 29  | 21  |
+-----+-----+---------+------+---+----++----+---+------+---------+-----+-----+
| BCM | wPi |   Name  | Mode | V | Physical | V | Mode | Name    | wPi | BCM |
+-----+-----+---------+------+---+--B Plus--+---+------+---------+-----+-----+
</code>
</pre>
<p>Somewhat confusingly, you’ll notice that there are three different ways to refer to the GPIO pins. Starting from the center of this table, we see:</p>
<ul>
<li>The “Physical” columns that correspond to the pin numbers of the J8 connector on the B+.</li>
<li>Moving outward from there, the the “mode” and “name” columns indicate the presently configured pin function and direction.</li>
<li>The next column out, “wPi,” is a set of contiguous numbers (0 to 31) that WiringPi uses by default (though it can be configured to use other numbering schemes, too – see the GPIO man pages).</li>
<li>Finally the “BCM” column refers to channels of the GPIO peripheral on the BCM2835 processor.</li>
</ul>
<p>The Pi Wedge is labeled with the numbers seen in the Name column.</p>
<p>If you run <code>gpio</code> without any parameters, it displays the available options. You can use it to configure, read and write pins right from the command line. Similarly, <code>man gpio</code> displays more detailed information on using the utility, including a number of sample commands.</p>
<h3>Programming</h3>
<p>If you’re coming from Arduino, and you’ve got a handle on how it manages I/O, you’ll find that the WiringPi libraries present a familiar programming interface. We have a few WiringPi based examples for GPIO, SPI and I2C in the <a href="http://bit.ly/1r9FY7L" target="_blank">Pi Wedge GitHub Repository</a> that should help you get started.</p>
<p>If Python is more your speed, then take a look at the <a href="http://bit.ly/1r9FYou" target="_blank">RPi.GPIO module</a>.</p>
<p>For more detailed information about using both WiringPi and RPi.GPIO, take a look at our <a href="http://bit.ly/2jFgCvt" target="_blank">Raspberry gPIo</a> tutorial.</p>
</div>
<div class="section tutorial-page">
<h2 id="resources--going-further">Resources and Going Further</h2>
<h3>Going Further</h3>
<p>To take a closer look at programming for the I/O on a Pi, in both Python and C, take a look at our <a href="http://bit.ly/2jFgCvt" target="_blank">Raspberry gPIo</a> tutorial.</p>
<p>The design files for the PCB, and some WiringPi software examples can be found in the <a href="http://bit.ly/2kaiFL6" target="_blank">Pi Wedge B Plus</a> GitHib repository.</p>
<h3>Resources</h3>
<p>For more information about the Raspberry Pi B+ and the software described here, please visit their sites.</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://bit.ly/1r9FXkm" target="_blank">The Raspberry Pi Foundation</a></li>
<li>The Pi Foundation’s <a href="http://bit.ly/1r9FXkh" target="_blank">B+ Addons</a> forum.</li>
<li>The Pi Foundation’s GitHub repository for the <a href="http://bit.ly/24g3LoI" target="_blank">Raspberry Pi B+ HATs</a>.</li>
<li>The eLinux.org <a href="http://bit.ly/24g3Mcc" target="_blank">Raspberry Pi peripherals</a> guide</li>
<li><a href="http://wiringpi.com/" target="_blank">WiringPi</a></li>
<li><a href="http://bit.ly/1r9FYou" target="_blank">RPi.GPIO module</a></li>
<li>Some notes about increasing the available current from the <a href="http://bit.ly/24g3LF2" target="_blank">B+ USB ports</a>.</li>
</ul>
<p>If you have any problems or questions, our <a href="http://bit.ly/1r9FXkq" target="_blank">technical support department</a> can help. Please don’t hesitate to contact us. We also love to hear about your projects!</p>
</div>
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