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Calibrate a Sensor Automatically (Calibration)

Wall's Corners

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Title: Calibrate a Sensor Automatically (Calibration)
Author: Wall's Corners
Rating 5 of 5 Des:

During the first 5 seconds that the Arduino sketch for this project runs, it will read the value on analog pin A0 which has an LDR connecte...

During the first 5 seconds that the <a href="http://ift.tt/25oS3pH" itemprop="url" target="_bank" title="Arduino">Arduino</a> sketch for this project runs, it will read the value on analog pin A0 which has an LDR connected to it. The highest and lowest values read on A0 will be saved. After the 5 second period, the Arduino will expect to get values between the highest and lowest values that it saved. It has thus been “calibrated” to these values.
After calibration, the value on the A0 analog pin will be continually read. The value that is read will be converted to a value between 0 and 255. When the minimum saved (calibrated) value is read, it will be converted to 0. When the maximum saved (calibrated) value is read, it will be converted to 255. Any value between the maximum and minimum calibrated values will be converted to a value between 255 and 0.
The converted value is used to change the brightness of the <a href="http://bit.ly/1UhB2tm" itemprop="url" target="_bank" title="LED">LED</a> connected to Arduino pin 9.
As an example: If the values read from A0 during calibration were between 20 and 100, then in the main program when values between 20 and 100 are received, values between 0 and 255 will be output to the LED.
Without calibration, the LED will never reach full dimness (0) when the lowest value (20) is read from A0. The LED would also never reach full brightness (255) when the highest value (100) is read from A0.
<h2>arts Needed</h2>
<ul>
<li>1 × LDR (Light Dependent Resistor)</li>
<li>1 × LED</li>
<li>1 × 10k resistor</li>
<li>1 × 220 ohm resistor</li>
</ul>
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<div class="clr_flt"> Arduino Website Page</div>
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<a class="targetblank" href="http://ift.tt/1k8Gh9B" target="_blank">Calibration</a>
<h2>In the Arduino IDE</h2>
File → Examples → 3.Analog → Calibration
<h2>Building the Circuit</h2>
The circuit diagram and breadboard connections are shown on the Arduino website <a class="targetblank" href="http://ift.tt/1k8Gh9B" target="_blank">Calibration</a> page. The LED is connected to pin 9 and the LDR to A0.
<h2>Programming and Operating the Circuit</h2>
In the Arduino IDE, open and upload the Calibration sketch (File → Examples → 3.Analog → Calibration).
Press the Arduino reset button and then move your <a href="http://ift.tt/2fmk3be" itemprop="url" target="_bank" title="hand">hand</a> above the LDR so that a minimum value is sampled and saved. Move your <a href="http://ift.tt/2fMYnne" itemprop="url" target="_bank" title="ANIMATRONIC ROBOTIC HAND">hand</a> away from the LDR so that it receives more <a href="http://bit.ly/1VNpzU4" itemprop="url" target="_bank" title="light">light</a> and a maximum value is sampled and saved. After calibration, the LED will switch on. You can now move your hand around the LDR and see the brightness of the LED change.
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Calibrate a Sensor Automatically (Calibration)

During the first 5 seconds that the Arduino sketch for this project runs, it will read the value on analog pin A0 which has an LDR connecte...

Arduino-Powered Temperature Controller

Wall's Corners

Link Author

Title: Arduino-Powered Temperature Controller
Author: Wall's Corners
Rating 5 of 5 Des:

Raise the perfect bread, brew beautiful beer, and rear happy chicks with an Arduino temperature controller. If you live in a less than reli...

Raise the perfect bread, brew beautiful beer, and rear happy chicks with an <a class="vglnk" href="http://bit.ly/2eNRUWx" rel="nofollow" target="_blank" title="Link added by VigLink">Arduino</a> temperature controller. If you live in a less than reliable climate like England, directions that tell you to keep something at a set temperature aren’t particularly helpful – we don’t have air conditioners, and raising the thermostat for the whole house isn’t practical for just making a loaf of bread. Even kept inside, chicks can die if the temperature drops at night; and getting them to hatch in the first place has an even stricter temperature range. But I need my bread, and the chicks need hatching – so instead of purchasing expensive equipment, we can cobble together a competent temperature controller with an Arduino and household bits.
The same is also true for keeping items cool – it can be wasteful to run a whole fridge just to make yoghurt – but with a temperature controller, the principle is the same. Instead of activating a heating element, you’ll be activating the plug on a mini-fridge or other cooling element, like a <a href="http://bit.ly/2fmpQO2" target="_blank">Peltier (thermoelectric cooler)</a> – and of course, the logic will be reversed.
<h2>What You Will Need</h2>
This is an Arduino project – if you’ve never worked with Arduino before, our <a href="http://bit.ly/2fMYlM8" target="_blank">free beginner’s guide</a> is a fantastic place to start.
<ul>
<li>Arduino</li>
<li>Temperature sensor – I’m using a TMP36, a cheap single package device that comes with the <a href="http://bit.ly/2fmkCSf" target="_blank">Oomlout</a> (UK) / <a href="http://bit.ly/2fMYzTD" target="_blank">Sparkfun</a> (US) beginner’s kit.</li>
<li>Relay or RC plug switches</li>
<li>Screw terminals</li>
<li>Box to trap the heat</li>
<li>Heating element or incandescent bulb and fixture (or both)</li>
</ul>
The last item has been left deliberately vague. If you have an incandescent bulb (the kind that gets hot, not an energy-saving bulb), or a hot lamp for sporting injuries and such, it’s probably the easiest to set up. I’m using a heating band – basically a band of rubber that gets warm when electricity is passed through, used on carboys and kegs for initial fermentation stages in wine or beer making – technically, this can be a fire risk when not wound around something, so please don’t do this, I’m only using it to test. You can also buy heating pads for the same purpose.
For safety reasons, I’m using <a href="http://bit.ly/2fme4TK" target="_blank">these RC plugs</a> to switch AC devices, with a controller hacked apart detailed in <a href="http://bit.ly/2fMVumg" target="_blank">this home automation article</a>. It’s wireless, so at no point need I actually touch live wires.
<img alt="adafruit-tmp36" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-275453" height="472" src="http://bit.ly/2fmkmmn" width="500" />
With the flat side toward you and legs face down, the TMP36 temperature sensor is wired up +, signal, GND in that order. The + goes to the 3.3 V output from <a class="vglnk" href="http://bit.ly/2eNRUWx" rel="nofollow" target="_blank" title="Link added by VigLink">Arduino</a>; you also need another line going from the +3.3 V to the AREF pin – this tells the Arduino to use 3.3 V for analog input reference instead of 5 V. Connect the signal pin of the sensor to A1. In previous attempts, I had used the TMP36 directly on the 5 V line; it works, bit unfortunately when paired with a relay, there was a power drop whenever the relay was activated, resulting in highly fluctuating readings.
I used an old network cable as signal cable – very useful to have around, since there are 8 wires inside. The cable is quite thin though, so be sure to strengthen the other end with solder where it’ll be screwed into a terminal block.
<img alt="tmp36-sensor-cabling" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-275466" height="428" src="http://bit.ly/2fMVsuP" width="590" />
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The formula in the code assumes you’re using the tMP36 sensor; you should be able to find a code sample for other sensors. This <a href="http://bit.ly/2fmguSr" target="_blank">sample code is from Adafruit</a> – load it up and open the Serial console to examine the output.
<img alt="tmp36-testing" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-275452" height="402" src="http://ift.tt/2fMVt1N" width="590" />
Compare with a thermometer if possible. Readings not right?
<ul>
<li>Check the voltage being supplied is actually 3.3 V</li>
<li>Is the AREF connected to 3.3 V too?</li>
</ul>
<h2>Adding in Switch Logic</h2>
To control the heating element, I’m using these RC plug sockets from Maplin, and have taken apart the controller. Only the ground and control pin need be connected. I’ve modified the code to include the relevant libraries which you can <a href="http://ift.tt/1dMTe3H" target="_blank">download from here</a>.
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<img alt="rc-switches" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-275472" height="393" src="http://ift.tt/2fmnr66" width="590" />
At this point, I’m also going to remove all references to Farenheit and continue working with Celsius only. I’ve then defined a desired temperature to maintain, and added in a simple control structure like so:
<pre class=" language-c">
<code class=" language-c">if(temperatureC < desiredTempC){
 mySwitch.switchOn(1,1);
 Serial.println("Heater ON");
 }
 else{
 Serial.println("Heater OFF");
 mySwitch.switchOff(1,1);
 }
</code>
</pre>
There’s nothing complex here that you won’t understand – just comparing the current temperature reading to the desired one, and turning on the switch if it’s lower; otherwise, turn it off.
The complete code can be <a href="http://ift.tt/2fMVsLa" target="_blank">found here</a>, though you will need to adjust this if you’re using a relay (it’s not hard). Here’s the complete wiring diagram I used:
<img alt="wiring" class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-275456" height="590" src="http://ift.tt/2fmnsHd" width="477" />
<h2>Putting It All Together</h2>
Tape the sensor inside the box you’re using, and place the heating element wherever is appropriate. Set the desired temperature, and turn it all on. If you keep your PC connected for now, you can use the Serial console to observe changes as your box heats up.
<img alt="temperature-controller-box" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-275468" height="393" src="http://ift.tt/2fMX9bK" width="590" />
<h2>Further Work</h2>
<ul>
<li>To lessen the impact of any temperature fluctuations, you can try smoothing the results. Create an array to store 10 readings, and calculate an average on each loop.</li>
<li>To avoid rapid activation and deactivation of the heating element, create a variable to store a countdown. Each time you activate or deactivate, record the current time in the countdown, then before switching the state again check to see if X amount of time has elapsed since the last state change.</li>
<li>For a computer-less project, hook up a small <a href="http://ift.tt/22InUQ2" itemprop="url" target="_bank" title="LCD">LCD</a> screen to display current temperature and allow you to see the current and desired temperature.</li>
</ul>
<h2>Putting It To The Test</h2>
Finally, what would this project be without a little test? I whipped up a batch of ready-mixed dough in the bread machine and split it into two loaves. The one leavened inside the box was mildy bigger, but then the ambient air temperature today is about 26 degrees Celsius anyway – this would be much more useful in winter. Regardless, I better go make some soup to accompany this lovely bread.
<img alt="bread-test" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-275502" height="393" src="http://ift.tt/2fMWC9N" width="590" />
So, what would you make that requires a constant temperature?
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Arduino-Powered Temperature Controller

Raise the perfect bread, brew beautiful beer, and rear happy chicks with an Arduino temperature controller. If you live in a less than reli...

Make Your Own Ambilight for $60

Wall's Corners

Link Author

Title: Make Your Own Ambilight for $60
Author: Wall's Corners
Rating 5 of 5 Des:

Step 1: Demo First, a demo of what we’re making. In case you’re curious, the video playing is Electric Sheep , a 3-hour long psy-trance tri...

<h2>Step 1: Demo</h2>
First, a demo of what we’re making. In case you’re curious, the video playing is <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O5RdMvgk8b0" target="_blank">Electric Sheep</a>, a 3-hour long psy-trance trip – it’s a perfect match to demonstrate the Ambilight. Of course, not all video is going to produce the same pleasing results – many movies are just too murky, or are presented in cinema format resulting in black bars (and consequently, no colour data). I found the best results with the bright, vivid colours in most animations, as well as action movies with elaborate CG effects.
At the moment, it only works with some signal processing on the computer side – so it’s great for things like VLC, Popcorn Time, Kodi (formerly known as XBMC), or PC gaming. Unfortunately, processing generic HDMI input is more difficult – at the very least, we would need an HDMI splitter, and some kind of converter to a more readable analog format. I’ll leave that for a future project – for now, this only works with a computer.
<h2>Step 2: You Will Need</h2>
<img alt="" src="http://bit.ly/2fMTGd8" title="" />
The parts list is short – no complex electronics here:
<ul>
<li>Arduino Uno</li>
<li>10A 5V power supply</li>
<li><a href="http://bit.ly/2fmk1A8" target="_blank">WS2812B 5-meter LED strip</a></li>
<li>Double sided tape (don’t make the same mistake I did – use good quality 3M stuff)</li>
<li><a href="http://bit.ly/2fN1AmT" target="_blank">Processing</a> installed</li>
</ul>
The main part of this ambilight clone is a string of individually addressable WS2812B LEDs. Each LED has it’s own chipset and single line is used for communication.  I bought mine from <a class="vglnk" href="http://bit.ly/2fmhpSY" rel="nofollow" target="_blank" title="Link added by VigLink">Aliexpress</a> for $52 including shipping – that was for a 5-meter reel (150 LEDs), which is more than enough for the largest of TVs – and a lot cheaper per LED than the $50 string that <a href="http://bit.ly/2fN3x2t" target="_blank">Adafruit sells</a>. A standalone 5V/10A power supply can be bought for <a href="http://bit.ly/2fmmgDv" target="_blank">around $10</a>, but I used an old ATX power supply that I’d <a href="http://bit.ly/2fN1bRe" target="_blank">previously converted into a bench supply</a>. If you have a huge TV and are planning to join multiple strips because 5 meters isn’t enough, be sure to work out your exact power requirements at 60mA per LED.<a href="http://bit.ly/2fN1bRe" target="_blank">How to Make a Bench Power Supply From An Old ATX PSU</a> <a href="http://bit.ly/2fN1bRe" target="_blank">How to Make a Bench Power Supply From An Old ATX PSU</a>If you have an old computer ATX PSU lying around, you can give it new life as a bench power supply. Here’s how.<a class="link-callout-link" href="http://bit.ly/2fN1bRe" target="_blank">READ MORE</a>
<h2>Step 3: Wiring</h2>
<img alt="" src="http://bit.ly/2fmmf2p" title="" />
Let’s test the lights first to ensure the power supply is sufficient and the basic communication is working. Connect pin 6 from the <a class="vglnk" href="http://bit.ly/2eNRUWx" rel="nofollow" target="_blank" title="Link added by VigLink">Arduino</a> to the DIN on the LED strip – your strip should have a breakout lead on one end, so use a male-female jumper wire. Also connect the GND pin from theArduino to GND on the strip. Do not attempt to provide power to the strip by the 5V pin on the Arduino. You will fry the Arduino, very quickly. Instead, use an external 5V power supply. A desktop PSU will happily power the full 5-meter strip for testing (assuming you’ve followed our <a href="http://bit.ly/2fN1bRe" target="_blank" title="How to Make a Bench Power Supply From An Old ATX PSU">bench supply conversion guide</a>). Calculate at 60mA per LED; so in my case, 114 LEDs at 60mA is just under 7A. If you’re thinking, “7 amps sounds like an awful lot!”, it’s because this runs at 5 volts – 7 amps at 240 volts would be a lot more!<a href="http://bit.ly/2fN1bRe" target="_blank">How to Make a Bench Power Supply From An Old ATX PSU</a> <a href="http://bit.ly/2fN1bRe" target="_blank">How to Make a Bench Power Supply From An Old ATX PSU</a>If you have an old computer ATX PSU lying around, you can give it new life as a bench power supply. Here’s how.<a class="link-callout-link" href="http://bit.ly/2fN1bRe" target="_blank">READ MORE</a>
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Note that these strips have a specific direction in which the signal must flow, indicated by arrows. If you’re connecting multiple strips, you may also need to re-inject the power midway to avoid voltage drop – I found this was unnecessary with just 5 meters though.
<h2>Step 4: Load the Arduino code and Test</h2>
<img alt="" src="http://bit.ly/2fMWB5J" title="" />
There’s both an <a class="vglnk" href="http://bit.ly/2eNRUWx" rel="nofollow" target="_blank" title="Link added by VigLink">Arduino</a> and Processing part to the project. First ensure you’ve added <a href="http://fastled.io/" target="_blank">FastLED</a> to your <a href="http://bit.ly/2fmlt5z" target="_blank">Arduino libraries directory</a>, then <a href="http://bit.ly/2fN0JT7" target="_blank">download this code</a>. Modify line 7 for the number of LEDs you have; and if you find the colour profile is broken, modify line 47. For the strip I purchased, it’s using chipset WS2812B and colour order of “GRB”. See the <a href="http://bit.ly/2fmjZZ2" target="_blank">FastLED documentation</a> on how to calibrate to your strip – but the default should be fine if you bought the same LEDs.
Lastly, you need the Processing components from the <a href="http://bit.ly/2fMWDdR" target="_blank">Adafruit project code</a>. For testing, open up Colorswirl.pde. Again, modify the number of LEDs on line 29; and the serial device on line 44. IfArduino is the only COM device plugged in, Serial.list()[0] is fine. If not, try Serial.list()[1]. Run the app and with any luck, your strips will show a beautiful swirl of colours.
Note that you’re not limited to Processing – anything which is compatible with the Adalight (such as <a href="http://lightpack.tv/" target="_blank">Prismatik</a>) can also be configured to work with this – but we’ll only be covering the setup procedure for Adalight in this tutorial.
<h2>Step 5: Measure and Cut To Size</h2>
<img alt="" src="http://bit.ly/2fmlO8r" title="" />
Pull your TV off the wall or turn it around, and measure up. I’m assuming you’ll be sticking the strips directly to the TV, but if that’s not the case you’ll need to build a frame. Try to ensure you get a pixel directly in each corner, but otherwise this step should be easy. Go ahead and cut the strip into shorter lengths – cut only between the copper pads where the dashed line indicates; and apply 3M double-sided sticky tape to each length. Don’t use cheap, generic tape like I did – it just won’t stick.
If you need to leave a gap at the bottom due to a TV stand, do so, but make sure your strip starts on either side of that and not in the corner – you can configure those missing pixels later in the software side of things.
<h2>Step 6: Trim the Plastic</h2>
<img alt="" src="http://bit.ly/2fMYDCU" title="" /> 
If your strip is contained within an outer waterproof plastic case, trim this away.
Carefully apply a little solder to each copper pad before you affix this to the TV – it’ll make joining the pieces a lot easier later on.
<h2>Step 7: Attach to Your TV and Join</h2>
<img alt="" src="http://bit.ly/2fmnqiy" title="" /> 
Go ahead and stick the strips to the back of your TV, remembering that each strip has a directionthat the signal must follow. It doesn’t matter which corner or which side of the TV stand you start from.
To join the corners, simply connect each of the 3 pads to their counterpart in the next strip. Again, applying a little solder to the wires before you attempt to join it to the pads is a lot easier. Leave the final strip as is – don’t connect it back to the start!
<h2>Step 8: Test Again</h2>
<img alt="" src="http://bit.ly/2fMYxet" title="" />
Let’s make sure we didn’t mess up the soldering there – load up the color swirl app again and check. Once you’re happy, return your TV to the right position and tidy up the wires. Let’s move on to configuring the software.
<h2>Step 9: Configure Adalight</h2>
<img alt="" src="http://bit.ly/2fmemdr" title="" />
The is the most tedious part of the project – each individual LED must be defined in the software. Load up Adalight.pde in Processing and first change the variable that defines the number of pixels along the sides and top (ignore any missing ones for now) – this is on line 87. In my case, I used 35 pixels on the top and bottom, and 22 at the sides, so this was defined as {0,35,22}.
Just underneath this is where you’ll find the “per-LED information” – a long list that defines every single LED around the TV. Each LED is defined as a set of 3 numbers:
<ul>
<li>Monitor number (I assume 0, but yours might be otherwise)</li>
<li>X coordinate – 0 being the left (facing the TV screen)</li>
<li>Y coordinate – 0 being the top (facing the TV screen)</li>
</ul>
Thankfully, one of our incredible readers – James Rankin – has developed a <a href="http://bit.ly/2fMYH5o" target="_blank">useful online utility</a>which does the hard work for you. Just enter the size of your matrix and the start position, then copy/paste the generated matrix definition into the Adalight Processing app. He’s also posted a <a href="http://bit.ly/2fmmM4G" target="_blank">quick fix for dealing with widescreen movies</a>, where the Processing code would normally evaluate the black bars at the top and bottom of the screen to mean display no lighting effect. Thanks James!
If you get errors when compiling, it means you’ve missed a comma somewhere or have too many curly braces – double check your code.
<h2>Step 10 Sit Back, Watch a Movie!</h2>
<img alt="" src="http://bit.ly/2fN0HKZ" title="" />
Run the code and launch a movie with your favourite software – the debug console of Processing tells me my computer manages a good 15 frames per second (that’s the refresh rate of the LEDs, not the video playback) – any modern computer should be able to handle that. There’s a few more variables you can adjust such as minimum brightness and the fade delay between refreshes – as ever, you’re encouraged to read through the code, understand it, and modify.
Congratulations, you now have an awesome DIY Ambilight system for $60 (and some LEDs left over, probably). Questions or problems – get in touch in the comments and I’ll do my best to help. Also tell us – what would you like to make with the remaining LEDs?
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Make Your Own Ambilight for $60

Step 1: Demo First, a demo of what we’re making. In case you’re curious, the video playing is Electric Sheep , a 3-hour long psy-trance tri...

Pulsating LED Cube

Wall's Corners

Link Author

Title: Pulsating LED Cube
Author: Wall's Corners
Rating 5 of 5 Des:

Pulsating LED Cube

Arduino-Powered Laser Turret

Wall's Corners

Link Author

Title: Arduino-Powered Laser Turret
Author: Wall's Corners
Rating 5 of 5 Des:

Are you bored? Might as well build a laser turret. You know – one that goes pew pew , shoots a red beam in lots of different directions, and...

Are you bored? Might as well build a laser turret. You know – one that goes pew pew, shoots a red beam in lots of different directions, and maybe even throw in a smoke machine? Yep, one of them.
<h2>What You Will Need</h2>
<ul>
<li>Arduino</li>
<li>2 servos</li>
<li>Laser module, such as one from <a href="http://bit.ly/2fmkjqH" target="_blank">this sensor kit</a></li>
<li>Piezo buzzer or other small output device</li>
<li>Metal wire and cable ties for fixing</li>
<li>Long female->male jump cables, plus regular jump cables</li>
</ul>
Optionally, a smoke machine is needed – the laser is pretty low wattage, so you won’t be able to see the beam without smoke even in a dark room.
<img alt="components" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-299794" height="427" src="http://bit.ly/2fMUwXf" width="640" />
<h2>Build Plan</h2>
The basic idea of the turret is to put the laser module on top of one servo to provide horizontal rotation; then mount that package onto another servo placed at a 90 degree angle to provide vertical movement. We’ve got a piezo to provide the pew pew sound effects, and I’m throwing in a smoke machine for good measure.
<h2>Servo Testing</h2>
Depending on your servo, the wires may be coloured differently, but in general:
<ul>
<li>Red is the positive wire, and on both my servos it was the centre of three – to be connected to +5v rail.</li>
<li>Brown or black is the negative, to be connected to GND on the Arduino.</li>
<li>White or orange is the signal wire, to be connected to a PWM capable digital I/O pin (9 and 10 in the demo below).</li>
</ul>
Once you’ve wired up your two servos, upload the following sample code. I’ve named one servo “hori” to control the horizontal movement, and the other “vert”. Each should perform a full range of motion sweep (about 60 degrees, in my case).
<pre class=" language-c">
<code class=" language-c">#include <servo.h>
Servo vert,hori; // create servo object to control a servo
 // a maximum of eight servo objects can be created 
int pos = 0; // variable to store the servo position
void setup()
{
 hori.attach(9);
 vert.attach(10); // attaches the servo on pin 9,10 to the servo objects
 vert.write(0);
 hori.write(0);
}

void loop()
{
 for(pos = 0; pos < 180; pos += 10) // goes from 0 degrees to 180 degrees 
 { // in steps of 10 degrees 
 vert.write(pos); 
 hori.write(pos); // tell servo to go to position in variable 'pos' 
 delay(100); // waits 100ms for the servo to reach the position 
 } 
 for(pos = 180; pos>=1; pos-=10) // goes back from 180 degrees to 0 degrees
 { 
 vert.write(pos); // tell servo to go to position in variable 'pos'
 hori.write(pos);
 delay(100); // waits 100ms for the servo to reach the position
 }
}
</code>
</pre>
All good? Moving on then.
<h2>Testing the Laser and Pew Pew Sound</h2>
The laser module is just like an LED, but it has a resistor built into the module so we can hook it up directly to a digital I/O – very simple. If you’re using the same laser module as me, the “–” goes to GND, the S goes to pin 12. Modify the sample code above to make pin 12 an output:
<pre class=" language-c">
<code class=" language-c">int laser = 12;
pinMode(laser,OUTPUT);
</code>
</pre>
Then blink the pin on and off each loop using standard digitalWrite() method.
We’ll just use PWM to drive the piezo buzzer at a comfortable sound level – you could experiment with using the tone library if you wanted, but a simple noise is all I need. Connect the black wire to ground and the red wire to pin 11. Define your buzzer on the relevant pin, set to output mode, and activate using analogWrite(buzzer, 100) (or any number you want up to 254); and analogWrite(buzzer,0) to turn off.
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The full sample code modified to sweep two servo, activate a laser, and play the annoying sound, <a href="http://bit.ly/2fmkanm" target="_blank">can be found here</a>.
All your components should be working – now we need to tie it all together.
<h2>Creating the Turret</h2>
Using cable ties, attach one servo to the other; it doesn’t really matter which, just make sure one will move on the horizontal and the other will move the vertical. You can pull off the rotor blade and re-seat during testing if the angle isn’t right.
<img alt="servos" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-299778" height="460" src="http://bit.ly/2fMVi6z" width="640" />
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Use some stiff modelling wire to fix the laser module to the blade of the other servo, like so:
<img alt="wire-for-laser-module" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-299779" height="418" src="http://bit.ly/2fmkAd5" width="640" />
Finally, I attached the whole thing to a desk leg with yet more cable-ties and a bit of scrap wood.
<img alt="attach-turret-to-table" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-299780" height="406" src="http://bit.ly/2fN0UOm" width="640" />
<h2>Programming the Turret</h2>
I don’t know about you, but my idea of a laser turret comes from countless numbers of sci-fi films and star trek episodes. Invariably someone will fly past a turret and little pew-pew shots will come flying out in a sweeping pattern, always milliseconds too slow so our protagonist doesn’t actually get hit. That’s what I’m trying to replicate, though feel free to tweak the main routine to suit your idea of what a turret should do.
Here’s the pseudo code I ended up using for the main loop:
<ul>
<li>Randomize time between bursts, and time between each individual shot.</li>
<li>Randomize the start and end position for each servo, vert and hori.</li>
<li>Randomize the number of shots to take.</li>
<li>Work out the number of degrees of change after each shot as the difference between start and end positions divided by number of shots.</li>
<li>Move the servos to the starting positions, and wait a little for them to get there (100ms)</li>
<li>Loop until all shots have been taken, each time moving the servos a little as previously calculated; move and shoot, move and shoot.</li>
<li>Repeat.</li>
</ul>
I also added a separate fire() method to structure the code a little better. Adjust the ranges of all random() functions to speed up or slow down each parameter; or increase the number of shots for a more dance club vibe. Scroll down for a video of the code in action!
<pre class=" language-c">
<code class=" language-c">#include <servo.h>

Servo vert,hori; // create servo object to control a servo

int pos = 0; // variable to store the servo position
int laser = 12;
int buzzer = 11;

void setup()
{
 hori.attach(9);
 vert.attach(10); // attaches the servo on pin 9 to the servo object
 pinMode(laser,OUTPUT);
 pinMode(buzzer,OUTPUT);
}

int vertChange = (vertEnd - vertStart) / numShots; //how much to move vertical axis by each shot
 int horiChange = (horiEnd - horiStart) / numShots;

vert.write(vertStart);//let it get to start position first, wait a little
 hori.write(horiStart);
 delay(100);

for(int shot = 0; shot<numShots; shot++){
 vert.write(vertStart);
 hori.write(horiStart);

vertStart += vertChange;//increment the vert value for next time
 horiStart += horiChange;

fire();
 delay(timeBetweenShots); //add a bit of variety to the speed of shots
 }
 delay(timeBetweenBursts);
}

void fire(){
 digitalWrite(laser,HIGH);
 analogWrite(buzzer,100);
 delay(20);//adjust this to change length of turret shot
 digitalWrite(laser,LOW);
 analogWrite(buzzer, 0); 
} 
</code>
</pre>
<h2>In Action</h2>
I don’t think there’s a practical use for this little toy, but it’s an awful lot of fun and there are a lot of variables you can tweak to get the desired effect. Perhaps it’ll come in handy for a homemade LEGO movie?
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Arduino-Powered Laser Turret

Are you bored? Might as well build a laser turret. You know – one that goes pew pew , shoots a red beam in lots of different directions, and...

Re-Create the Arcade Classic “Pong”

Wall's Corners

Link Author

Title: Re-Create the Arcade Classic “Pong”
Author: Wall's Corners
Rating 5 of 5 Des:

470 ohm resistor x1 1k ohm resistor x1 10k ohm Potentiometer ( twiddly variable resistor) x2 Arduino x1 (any version) RCA plug x...

<ul>
<li>470 ohm resistor x1</li>
<li>1k ohm resistor x1</li>
<li>10k ohm Potentiometer (twiddly variable resistor) x2</li>
<li>Arduino x1 (any version)</li>
<li>RCA plug x1 (if you have more than one, you can hook up sound too. One for the video is a bare minimum)</li>
<li>Pushbutton switch x1</li>
<li>10k ohm resistor x1</li>
</ul>
<img alt="arduino pong" class="aligncenter" height="338" src="http://bit.ly/2eNOu6g" width="590" />
You’ll also to download the <a href="http://bit.ly/2g5sVTT" target="_blank">TV Out Arduino library from here</a> – get the TVoutBeta1.zip, the latest release. Place the resulting folders all into your /arduino/libraries directory, and restart the <a class="vglnk" href="http://bit.ly/2eNRUWx" rel="nofollow" target="_blank" title="Link added by VigLink">Arduino</a>IDE if it’s open already.
<h2>Testing TV Out</h2>
Take your RCA plug and strip the outer layer away. Gather up the shielding, twist and put away to one side. This is your ground. In the center should be another cable with plastic shielding – again, strip this away so you have your signal line.
<div class="single-post-content rte">
<img alt="arduino pong game" class="aligncenter" height="309" src="http://bit.ly/2g5sn0j" width="590" />
Solder both the 470 ohm and 1k ohm resistors to the centre signal line of your RCA plug – this provides a sync signal and the actual video signal, combined to produce the analogue video input. The 470 ohm resistor should slot into digital IO pin D07, while the 1k ohm resistor goes to pin D09.
These pins are set by the library we import, so you can’t change them. One of your <a class="vglnk" href="http://bit.ly/2eNRUWx" rel="nofollow" target="_blank" title="Link added by VigLink">Arduino</a> GND pins should go to the shielding (outside) of the RCA.
<img alt="arduino pong game" class="aligncenter" height="286" src="http://bit.ly/2eNGvWV" width="590" />
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Now you can go ahead and load in an example; although both PAL and NTSC are provided, it shouldn’t really matter with modern digital TVs – the NTSC demo worked fine for me despite being in the UK. Plug into your TV, and should get a lovely retro 3D cube. Oooooh yeah – are you excited yet? I am.
<img alt="arduino pong game" class="aligncenter" height="393" src="http://bit.ly/2g5p8pw" width="590" />
<h2>Test Analogue Potentiometer Inputs</h2>
Ok, we’ve got the TV output working, now let’s have a go with the controllers. The wiring of the “pots” is not so critical – each should have 3 pins, and the central one nearly always produces the output signal. Wire that to A0 and A1 (one for each pot). On one of the side pins – it doesn’t matter which – wire up +5V. The other pin on the other side should go to ground.
Here I’ve put them both facing each on single breadboard, because I only have short wires. For a polished product, you’ll want to use some old networking cable to give you a bit of distance (so you can actually sit on the sofa to play).
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<img alt="arduino pong project" class="aligncenter" height="397" src="http://bit.ly/2eNRVK5" width="590" />
Next, load up one of the <a href="http://bit.ly/2g5vtRI" target="_blank">basic example</a> sketches that come with the <a class="vglnk" href="http://bit.ly/2eNRUWx" rel="nofollow" target="_blank" title="Link added by VigLink">Arduino</a> – the analog input one. This demo will flash the onboard LED faster or slower, depending on the input on A0.
It doesn’t test the other A1 pot, but if you’ve got A0 wired up right then I can’t see how you would make a mistake on A1, so let’s assume that’s all good and move on.
<h2>Add a Start Switch</h2>
Finally, we’ll add a start switch on D02. Refer to the <a href="http://bit.ly/2g5pah8" target="_blank">wiring diagram here</a> for how to do that. This switch will be used to start the game when in the menu.
<img alt="arduino pong project" class="aligncenter" height="446" src="http://bit.ly/2eNRWh7" width="590" />
<h2>The Pong Code</h2>
We’re using some code originally written by Lamonica, modified by duboisvb for two players, and updated by myself to use the latest beta version of the TV out library. You can view and download the code <a href="http://bit.ly/2g5rLYl" target="_blank">from this pastebin</a>.
It’s quite long but simple code that shouldn’t require any explanation from me. Like most games, it relies upon a game state (menu, in-game, game over), and reads the input values of both controllers and the switch each iteration of the loop. Beyond that are the methods to draw the screen, the ball, the paddles, and the game logic.
<img alt="arduino pong project" class="aligncenter" height="426" src="http://bit.ly/2eNQQ4U" width="590" />
Note that the code includes audio output too: I couldn’t find any more RCA plugs to test that, but if you have some, then wire the signal pin directly to D11, and you should get some pleasing retro tones.
<img alt="arduino pong" class="aligncenter" height="393" src="http://bit.ly/2g5w4mr" width="590" />
To be honest, I didn’t know <a class="vglnk" href="http://bit.ly/2eNRUWx" rel="nofollow" target="_blank" title="Link added by VigLink">Arduino</a> could even do TV out without some immensely complex coding; the TV out library makes it really easy. Even if you’re not into retro gaming, using this basic TV out is a great way to utilise existing equipment as a cheap monitor device. You can of course <a href="http://bit.ly/2eNKJOb" target="_blank">output colour</a>, too.
Do you think you’ll have a go at Arduino Pong, or perhaps make your own retro videogame remake? Tell us in the comments if you have!
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Re-Create the Arcade Classic “Pong”

470 ohm resistor x1 1k ohm resistor x1 10k ohm Potentiometer ( twiddly variable resistor) x2 Arduino x1 (any version) RCA plug x...

Re-Create the Arcade Classic “Pong”

Wall's Corners

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Title: Re-Create the Arcade Classic “Pong”
Author: Wall's Corners
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470 ohm resistor x1 1k ohm resistor x1 10k ohm Potentiometer ( twiddly variable resistor) x2 Arduino x1 (any version) RCA plug x...

<ul>
<li>470 ohm resistor x1</li>
<li>1k ohm resistor x1</li>
<li>10k ohm Potentiometer (twiddly variable resistor) x2</li>
<li>Arduino x1 (any version)</li>
<li>RCA plug x1 (if you have more than one, you can hook up sound too. One for the video is a bare minimum)</li>
<li>Pushbutton switch x1</li>
<li>10k ohm resistor x1</li>
</ul>
<img alt="arduino pong" class="aligncenter" height="338" src="http://bit.ly/2eNOu6g" width="590" />
You’ll also to download the <a href="http://bit.ly/2g5sVTT" target="_blank">TV Out Arduino library from here</a> – get the TVoutBeta1.zip, the latest release. Place the resulting folders all into your /arduino/libraries directory, and restart the <a class="vglnk" href="http://bit.ly/2eNRUWx" rel="nofollow" target="_blank" title="Link added by VigLink">Arduino</a>IDE if it’s open already.
<h2>Testing TV Out</h2>
Take your RCA plug and strip the outer layer away. Gather up the shielding, twist and put away to one side. This is your ground. In the center should be another cable with plastic shielding – again, strip this away so you have your signal line.
<div class="single-post-content rte">
<img alt="arduino pong game" class="aligncenter" height="309" src="http://bit.ly/2g5sn0j" width="590" />
Solder both the 470 ohm and 1k ohm resistors to the centre signal line of your RCA plug – this provides a sync signal and the actual video signal, combined to produce the analogue video input. The 470 ohm resistor should slot into digital IO pin D07, while the 1k ohm resistor goes to pin D09.
These pins are set by the library we import, so you can’t change them. One of your <a class="vglnk" href="http://bit.ly/2eNRUWx" rel="nofollow" target="_blank" title="Link added by VigLink">Arduino</a> GND pins should go to the shielding (outside) of the RCA.
<img alt="arduino pong game" class="aligncenter" height="286" src="http://bit.ly/2eNGvWV" width="590" />
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Now you can go ahead and load in an example; although both PAL and NTSC are provided, it shouldn’t really matter with modern digital TVs – the NTSC demo worked fine for me despite being in the UK. Plug into your TV, and should get a lovely retro 3D cube. Oooooh yeah – are you excited yet? I am.
<img alt="arduino pong game" class="aligncenter" height="393" src="http://bit.ly/2g5p8pw" width="590" />
<h2>Test Analogue Potentiometer Inputs</h2>
Ok, we’ve got the TV output working, now let’s have a go with the controllers. The wiring of the “pots” is not so critical – each should have 3 pins, and the central one nearly always produces the output signal. Wire that to A0 and A1 (one for each pot). On one of the side pins – it doesn’t matter which – wire up +5V. The other pin on the other side should go to ground.
Here I’ve put them both facing each on single breadboard, because I only have short wires. For a polished product, you’ll want to use some old networking cable to give you a bit of distance (so you can actually sit on the sofa to play).
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<img alt="arduino pong project" class="aligncenter" height="397" src="http://bit.ly/2eNRVK5" width="590" />
Next, load up one of the <a href="http://bit.ly/2g5vtRI" target="_blank">basic example</a> sketches that come with the <a class="vglnk" href="http://bit.ly/2eNRUWx" rel="nofollow" target="_blank" title="Link added by VigLink">Arduino</a> – the analog input one. This demo will flash the onboard <a href="http://bit.ly/1UhB2tm" itemprop="url" target="_bank" title="LED">LED</a> faster or slower, depending on the input on A0.
It doesn’t test the other A1 pot, but if you’ve got A0 wired up right then I can’t see how you would make a mistake on A1, so let’s assume that’s all good and move on.
<h2>Add a Start Switch</h2>
Finally, we’ll add a start switch on D02. Refer to the <a href="http://bit.ly/2g5pah8" target="_blank">wiring diagram here</a> for how to do that. This switch will be used to start the game when in the menu.
<img alt="arduino pong project" class="aligncenter" height="446" src="http://bit.ly/2eNRWh7" width="590" />
<h2>The Pong Code</h2>
We’re using some code originally written by Lamonica, modified by duboisvb for two players, and updated by myself to use the latest beta version of the TV out library. You can view and download the code <a href="http://bit.ly/2g5rLYl" target="_blank">from this pastebin</a>.
It’s quite long but simple code that shouldn’t require any explanation from me. Like most games, it relies upon a game state (menu, in-game, game over), and reads the input values of both controllers and the switch each iteration of the loop. Beyond that are the methods to draw the screen, the ball, the paddles, and the game logic.
<img alt="arduino pong project" class="aligncenter" height="426" src="http://bit.ly/2eNQQ4U" width="590" />
Note that the code includes audio output too: I couldn’t find any more RCA plugs to test that, but if you have some, then wire the signal pin directly to D11, and you should get some pleasing retro tones.
<img alt="arduino pong" class="aligncenter" height="393" src="http://bit.ly/2g5w4mr" width="590" />
To be honest, I didn’t know <a class="vglnk" href="http://bit.ly/2eNRUWx" rel="nofollow" target="_blank" title="Link added by VigLink">Arduino</a> could even do TV out without some immensely complex coding; the TV out library makes it really easy. Even if you’re not into retro gaming, using this basic TV out is a great way to utilise existing equipment as a cheap monitor device. You can of course <a href="http://bit.ly/2eNKJOb" target="_blank">output colour</a>, too.
Do you think you’ll have a go at <a href="http://bit.ly/1XReOgM" itemprop="url" target="_bank" title="Arduino">Arduino</a> Pong, or perhaps make your own retro videogame remake? Tell us in the comments if you have!
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Re-Create the Arcade Classic “Pong”

470 ohm resistor x1 1k ohm resistor x1 10k ohm Potentiometer ( twiddly variable resistor) x2 Arduino x1 (any version) RCA plug x...

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